Helmets and Sport climbing

[MCpl]

Do helmets and sport climbing go hand-in-hand? Are they necessary? I can see it for some instances, but for single pitch climbing is there any need? Are people being told to be aware of the dangers of certain aspects of climbing and are they then assuming that it is prevalent in all aspects?

What do you'all think?

[Brendan]

imo, helmets are mostly for rock fall!
i suppose in some cases, a Petzl Meteor type "sport" helmet may prevent head injury in the event of a fall, but more often than not, it's for rockfall!

tuesday on the grand wall, a rock the size of a tennis ball came whizzing by our heads, but luckily we had plenty of warning from the pary whom which knocked it off!!

i've worn a helmet once back in '98 in squamish, and never again! in the past i've fallen while climbing the chief, both 30+ footers, and upside down on gear, and never came close to hitting my head!

i guess it's a personal decision. if one feels comfortable wearing a helmet while climbing (kinda like over protecting a route), who's to say otherwise!!?

[mcgarnickle]

I never wear a helmet sport climbing, but at certain crags, I think the belayer really must wear one. Mota wall at Potrero, minimum at maple and a few others are just horrible for falling rock. Since the belayer is below the climber, I just think they are in more danger of falling rocks. In squampton areas, I've never felt the need for one while sport climbing tho.

[mcgarnickle]

sup brendan

[Climbingjunky]

Generally, i believe wearing a helmet is an excellent idea. you can never be too safe. Although I understand the issue of comfort. It's a personal decisions.There are some single pitch sportclimbs out there that are kind of sketchy when it comes to falling, especially when it involves swinging in an awkward way. There was a scenario last weekend where my gf was leading a route at Murrin, slightly above her level, as she past the 3 clip, she moved towards the right, she got pretty high up because it was the only obvious way, but she fell and took a nasty swing that almost caused her head to hit some rocks on the opposite side. Anyways, my point is, on sketchier climbs, it may be a good idea.

[WhiskeyKid]

I think, like anything else, you assume a certain amount of risk and you have to be able to accept the consequences. Of course climbing without a helmet is more dangerous, but so is not stuffing in a cam every four feet. Sometimes though, you assess the risk and just run it out. There certainly are places that I wouldn't climb without a helmet, like Yamnuska (hell, I wouldn't camp under that pile of choss without a helmet), but on the highly travelled routes of bomber granite at squamish? I leave the helmet in the truck for everything but aid (I had a friend get stitches on his noodle after a nut he was bounce testing popped).

[erock]

It's really nice to climb without a helmet on, and squamish is great for that because of the bomber granite. But i still do often wear a helmet where i know people will be climbing above me. i'm more afraid of getting a piece of gear dropped on my head than a rock.

anyways, point is i dont wear a helmet on sport climbs very often.

besides i cant seem to find a helmet that fits properly anyways. I was wondering if anyone else out there has this problem? My head is kinda oval shape i guess, and the best fit i could find was a BD half dome, but even that flops around on the top of my head. i was looking for something low profile but they all seem to be similar shape.

maybe i would wear it more often if it fit comfortably.

[ras]

I like my helmet, it keeps the sun off my head...

Mostly, I wear it for rock fall. I've seen pieces (one big enough to chop my rope into 3 pieces when it fell on the rope bag) come off "well travelled" routes, and I've had little rocks, baseball size, blow off the top of walls and land near me. Don't want to be beaned! If i think the rocks is solid, and that the top of the routes are stable enough things aren't going to get kicked off I forget the helmet. Most of Chek is in that category for me.

[chad]

Seems to be that nearly everyone I have climbed with this past 6 weeks in Squamish, brings a helmet up to the crag and leaves it on the floor at the bottom on all single pitch climbs, sport or trad. Multi pitch people seem to put the helmet on but I say you should just where it the whoole time. I do, force of habit and you forget you are wearing it as soon as you put it on. A little bit more security makes sense, you never know what might happen and as mentioned above, rocks and gear falling from above happens quite regularly on the Grand wall area for instance. The new meteor is so light and comfortable you have no excuse!! Chad

[Climbingjunky]

Snazzy!

[stick]

Had some guy's gear puller smoke me in the head 2 weeks ago .... if I wasn't wearing a brain bucket I would definitly have stiches in my noodle ...or worse!! Accidents usually occure due to a series of mistakes and not just 1 ... to me, wearing a helmet reduces the chance of the first event occuring. Besides you may aswell armour plate your self and push your limits... just one less thing to worry about.

[MCpl]

I can definately see the point for multi-pitch and/or gear climbing. Buy I was asking about sport.

[pitted_date]

Extra protection for your brain is a good thing. If you have had to go through rehab for a head/brain injury, relearned how to walk, use your arms, etc, you may find the "inconvenience or uncoolness" of wearing a helmet negligible.

The trade routes in Squamish often have people above...Exasperator is a great example of no one wearing helmets but exposed to rockfall from the Black Dyke. Apron Strings sees quite a few biners, cams, and gear whipping from the Split Pillar and beyond. The Flats have alot of loose rock as well that threaten people at the base.

If you don't want to wear a helmet, it is your choice. Just remember that head injuries are not fun to recover from, from personal experience I know. That being said, don't live your life in fear of "what could happen". Get out and enjoy the rock (fall)!

[pitted_date]

If you get your leg caught behind the rope and take a whipper that flips you upside-down, it isn't uncommon to smack your head, helmeted or otherwise, on the cliff. Sport climbing involves alot of falling so just keep that in mind when you do your ropework.

[Brendan]

^^ good point, but personally, i have taken many a whipper on gear (rarely on sport) and got my foot caught behind the rope. Never have i hit my head! i just tuck my chin in!!?
seem to work fine for me...
but then again... back in '99 i saw a guy fall off "This is the New Stuff" in Rouges. he got caught behind the rope during a fall and merely missed one of those rediculous ledges, and smacked his meteor pretty nicely!!!

to each their own...
cheers