Building a Bluffs Rack

[ctardi]

OOOkay...it's probably been covered before, but let's cover it again! I'm in the thinkin stages, and wantin to build me a smoke bluffs rack.

I'm thinkin TCU's from 00-4, as they come in a set for $279.
I want a Red Metolious Power Cam, it's been one of my 2 favourite peices i've ever placed that's $58
Technical Friends come in a set of 3 for $165, numbers 1, 2, and 3.
New Camalot #1, my other favourite peice.

And for my bigger stuff, i'm not sure. Maybe a #2 Camalot?
Couple DMM 4CU's?
and my really big cams will be a forged friend.

I have lots in there for the 20-30mm range, which is what I find i'm usually placing. I need suggestions on the bigger stuff. What types, and what sizes work well for squamish area climbing? How big should I go?

[iff]

you dont need a rack for the bluffs, all you need in a top rope setup. That is, as long as you avoid the climbs where Scar has jacked out the anchors!

[Brendan]

ok... all you need for the bluffs are:
metolius #0 - 3 (or preferably "Alien" equivelancy).
BD #0.4 - #3 (old style, but similar in the newer style).
you may want to double up on these if you're a noob...?
and if you're planning on climbing big routes on the chief, then double up this rack! you'll Never bring all this gear up, but it's good to double up the important sizes just in case!

example: when i'm climbing the Grand, i bring: 1 #1-3 TCU, and 1 #0.5-3 BD Camalot, about 8 draws, and no nuts, and i'm good for every pitch!
you only need the rediculous draws for either Cruel Shoes, or Perry's Lieback. and you only need the big gear (BD 1-3) for the pillar! otherwise it's just small stuff... lol...
good luck!

[Brendan]

oops, i squlled equivalency wrong!! ^^^

[Brendan]

damn... and i spelled "spelled" wrong, lol... it's late, and i'm tired!! haha

[ctardi]

hmmm hmmm hmmm, gives me a good place to start.

I am a bit of a noob to trad climbing, so I am doubling up in the finger ish crack range, around TCU 4, Friend 1 range....

Yea I could just top rope in the bluffs...but where's the fun in that?

[ctardi]

So...went to mec today...
A set of 6 TCU's followed me home. I swear.

[Brendan]

hey, where in MR do u live??

[ctardi]

116ave and 238b, You in the area?

[Brendan]

yep... top of 232nd (SilverValley).
hey, have you ever done Blanshard in Golden Ears??

[ctardi]

That's not far from here...

You climb at the gym at all? If you do, chances are I know you...

[Brendan]

lol... when i do go to the gym, it's cliffhanger coq.!!!

[PAW]

how about you love birds call each other and talk, rather then wasting my time.

[Brendan]

[Climbingjunky]

It's called PM, and it's very useful