Rapping the Papoose?

[spantik]

Does anyone know if you can rap the Papoose off the Centerfold anchors with a single 60M rope? (I know there is a good walkoff as well.)

[Jason]

i think so.

[gearheart]

Yes, but you have to diagonal over left to the anchors on the top of Pin-up, then you can rap down the top pitch of that route, then you rap back over to Moccasin Ledge & on down. Or you can rap Centrefold directly with a 70m rope.

[spantik]

Good to know, thx

[pitted_date]

BC Parks built a descent trail last October from the top of the Papoose down to the base. The trail heads east from the summit, instead of west (like the old trail), and drops you down quite expeditiously to the base. No need to rap if you don't want to. The trail is also marked with the standard orange markers and is easy to follow.

[Don Serl]

I've always liked the climbing on the Papoose a bunch. Pin-up, Centrefold, Papoose One, and Hair Pin all ought to have lotsa traffic on them every weekend - they are all varied, entertaining, and challenging but not outright hard. but even with the new trail getting down has always seemed a touch of a hassle to me.
it's not too bad rapping the south end (Pin-up/Centrefold), and you can walk a short distance from the top of Papoose One to this line too. or even from Hair Pin, but then the "down" route is starting to get crowded. and the current rap anchors are shared climbing anchors.
last summer I rapped the north end after climbing Hair Pin, and the whole scenario was comedic: thrash into the trees to the left of the top, sling a tree, rap way down over a roof (wondering whether the ropes will get stuck above), pull from an old hanging belay, etc. cluster-fzck!
i've been thinking about setting up better rap lines on the Papoose ever since. my ideal would be to have one line to serve Pin-up/Centrefold (south), another for Papoose One (centre), and third for Hair-pin (north). the rap stances would probably have to share ledges with belay stances (altho maybe not entirely), but the anchors ideally would be separate so there'd not be any interference between "uppers" and "downers". and they'd need to be set so that pulled ropes wouldn't clobber climbers either. given the diagonal nature of many of the Papoose routes, this might be a bit problematic, but problems always have solutions, right?
any comments? thoughts? suggestions?
cheers, don

[spantik]

I was the one who asked about the rap situation in the 1st post, and having checked it out I think the Pinup raps are more than adequate. The new trail is (almost absurdly) well marked and takes only a few minutes to get down. I spent a day at the Papoose each of the past 2 w/e and Pinup and the last pitch Centerfold didn't see much traffic so chance of conflicts seems small. Just my 2 cents...

What's the (newly scrubbed?) line left of Hairpin? (1st p. is a long diagonal fault sorta like the 1st p. of Hairpin, 2d p. underclings out and around a big arching roof.) It didn't seem to correspond with anything in the guide, at least that I could figure out.

[XXXX]

Isnt that Pamplemousse?

[Don Serl]

i walked across below, then up to the top, a few days ago to reacquaint myself with the whole Papoose 'scene'. still seems to me there ought to be some improvements and/or additions to the rap situation, but the new trail is certainly lovely and fast: 8 mins from top to botttom, 5 mins back to base, at an easy pace. while my spewing about rap lines north, centre, and south is certainly WAY overkill, i can't recall the last time i walked off this crag. just way too easy to leave all the sh*t at the base instead...
cheers, don

[Brendan]

from the "playboy club" ledge on Centrefold, it's a 50m rap to the ground!

[Brendan]

this is a pic of pamplemousse!
it shows the left trending diagonal crack, which continues through the roof!
sorry it's hard to see, but the best way to climb this amazing .11a pitch (to base of roof) is to follow the easy treed ramp at bottom of pic, to the far left of pic, then follow it back up and right to those purple belay slings at the bottom left of that groove! then follow the groove to the top, then cut back left and follow the crack to the roof!!
alternatively, one can belay at the bottom right of the pic (where the 3 cracks intersect) then follow the main left trending crack up and left to the roof, but this causes unnecessary issues in the middle section where the rock is broken! it's hard to explain, but you can't follow the crack, you're forced to the right under that smooth pillar like round feature (where hairpin goes), and it's tricky getting back to the proper crack!

mclane's new guide description is a bit off
and squamish select (p.57) the photo shows the wrong line. where it shows the .8 left trending line ending at a belay in a triangular shadowed alcove, it's actually the next line to the left (unmarked and identical) which is the correct line!

[spantik]

I think the line I'm asking about follows the more horizontal crack in the picture--the one with shrubs in it--except I think the shrubs are now gone. The second pitch, again from memory, would be the same corner/roof system as the one pictured, only it follows the section below and to the left outside of the picture. Of course this is from memory so I may be totally off base . . .

[original gorby]

Just make sure that you gorbs aren't throwing your rope onto any leaders. Either wait it out or use that sweet new trail. I was leading the 2nd pitch of Centerfold on the weekend when 4 gorbs decided to rap down to playboy ledge just as I was approaching (they knew I was on the way up). I waited to bring up the second and then started the 3rd pitch when another rope began lowering into my face...lo and behold more people too lazy to walk off. Point is...don't rap routes that others are leading when there is a perfectly good walk-off.[/b]

[RamsayJ]

C'mon, 30mm rope is OK. You are talking as if it were as thin as a hair. I say you don't need hair transplantation, 30 will do for a 55kg squash.