Angel's Crest at the Chief

[76]

Soon I am going to climb this route and I will be happy if somebody can give me some info, tips and etc.which are not in the guide books.
Thanks

[Climbingjunky]

ouch.

[76]

Important tip

On a cloudy day don't decide at 4pm in the afternoon that it would be a good idea to climb Angels Crest, then end up toping out on the dark and taking 4 hours to descend the backside of the chief with no light in a pair on flip flops. If that was in the guide book it would have saved me a lot of pain and misery.

Gary

I guess it's not fun to descend 4 hours in the dark

by the way what's the average time to complete the route
Thanks

[Squamishmonkey]

Tips:
Start Early- one rope - Headlamp
The most time consuming part of the route is rope management.
After pitch 3, Use 35m of the rope, coil the rest.
You will need to uncoil it at the acrophobe tower: at the end of this pitch clip the anchor and have the belayer lower you down 10 m....if you run out of rope they simply start climbing until you are on the ground and can belay them, when they reach the anchor you can take their weight and lower them.
Very short pitch to a flat block...perfect for lunch, down climb the block using the fixed line.

Combine the last two pitched into one by cutting right and avoiding the belly crawl....good gear and easy move (45m)

Time saving tip, belay on the solid trees with a reverso and coil the rope as the seconder climbs, as they reach you have them walk ahead in the forests as you dismantle the anchor. Walk with the coils to the base of the next pitch....repeat as neccessary

First time I climbed the route it took 8hrs...last time it took three. Smile nicely as you pass the others by

[XXXX]

Tip: don't wear some flimsy sh*t in the chimbley. I wore this new Kappa shirt and it got munched. That's what I get for dressing chav.

[76]

Tips:
Start Early- one rope - Headlamp
The most time consuming part of the route is rope management.
After pitch 3, Use 35m of the rope, coil the rest.
You will need to uncoil it at the acrophobe tower: at the end of this pitch clip the anchor and have the belayer lower you down 10 m....if you run out of rope they simply start climbing until you are on the ground and can belay them, when they reach the anchor you can take their weight and lower them.
Very short pitch to a flat block...perfect for lunch, down climb the block using the fixed line.

Combine the last two pitched into one by cutting right and avoiding the belly crawl....good gear and easy move (45m)

Time saving tip, belay on the solid trees with a reverso and coil the rope as the seconder climbs, as they reach you have them walk ahead in the forests as you dismantle the anchor. Walk with the coils to the base of the next pitch....repeat as neccessary

First time I climbed the route it took 8hrs...last time it took three. Smile nicely as you pass the others by

Thanks for the tips Guys

[thebigchin]

Photocopy the guidebook page and bring it. Go light. Go fast. Don't bring pack. Have fun.

Get on it early, not because you'll run out of daylight, but to get ahead of the crowds.

Climb the tree to get on the route instead of the crappy original start.

[76]

Photocopy the guidebook page and bring it. Go light. Go fast. Don't bring pack. Have fun.

Get on it early, not because you'll run out of daylight, but to get ahead of the crowds.

Climb the tree to get on the route instead of the crappy original start.

I am thinking to get at the base around 8 in the morning,but I guess it will be better to be earlier there.Yes I want to go light but now I am thinking that I want to get some hiking shoes ,lunch,water,digital camera ,headlamp. I guess all that is ready a pack.

[Dooley]

Forget about the hiking shoes. Get a pair of approach shoes. Less bulky and you can climb some pitchs in them!

[spantik]

Or just flip flops. Much lighter and less bulky clipped to the back of the harness. I've never done angels crest but I find flip flops are fine for walking off the chief backside trail, and I have yet to do a squish approach where flips were not sufficient to get to the point where you want to be wearing rock shoes anyway. Unlike a lot of granite areas the approaches are notably free of sand, scree and loose talus.

Though if you don't wear flip flops regulalry I would not recommend you start with a slog down the backside trail

A camelback full of water with a couple of windshirts, powerbars and microheadlamps, worn by the 2d, should be all the pack you need

[stick]

you may as well wear sandals instead of flip flops as there are some places in this area of the world that I have been glad to have a shoe that also hods on to me. Food and water should be carried on this climb as it can be a cluster #$@% at times. the guide book talks of 2 retreats into the north gully...avoid these at all costs especially the higher one after the towers, it's nasty, loose and if you end up in that gully, you don't want to have flip flops on!

[thebigchin]

True dat!!! That gully is heinous!!! I hiked it with a friend 2 summers ago and have never felt quite so close to death as when I was on the top 1/4 of that thing! I'd rap the route as hard as that might be, rather than go into that gully again.

I can't even imagine what your feet would look like after descending the gully in flip flops. Gawd!!!

[stick]

BLOODY!!!!

I just happened to forget my aproach shoes that day. What an epic....I was the first to do the second rap. and 10m from the bottom I heard a rumble and looked up with just enough time to push to the side as 2 soccer ball size rocks flew past right where I was hanging! (knock on wood) and if that wasn't enough on the walk out I disloged a talus rock, my partner moved to the side and i let it go. It took a crazy lateral hop right beside him and smoked his knee! knock on wood again as he was able to do the rest of the hr crawl out with 2 more small raps. and had only a sore leg to show for it. Yikes!!
It is a volitile place!