looking for climbing advice

[phoenix]

Hello,

I'm a rookie climber. I have been frequently the bouldering wall at the indoor gym, and I am having problems in that my hands are getting ripped to shreds. I'm not sure if I'm doing something horribly wrong, or if this is just a natural result due to not having enough hand and arm strength to hold the positions. Have you got any advice for me?

Thanks,
Melodie

[Dooley]

Keep climbing my friend! It is called developing texture. Your tips and contact points of your fingers will calus. Wait till you hit the granite of Squamish...say good bye to all of your skin for the first little while.

I also find that inside you dont develop calus's as well because there is more of a tendincy to slip off holds. This causes more of a friction burn!

[phoenix]

It is called developing texture.

I like the way you spin it. Suddenly it seems like I made more progress in the gym today than I had originally thought. However, untill I get a little skin back on at least 5 out of 10 fingers, I think I need to avoid the gym.

Can you recommend any hand strengthing exercises for me to try in the meantime?

[erock]

I wouldn't really worry too much about doing extra hand strength training. Your skin will adjust as long as your climbing consistently. I remember when i started i was always getting flappers. nothing a little tape wont help.
One thing i would avoid as a beginner though is crimping. It's really hard on your pulleys and tendons. At least thats what i found.

now go have fun in the nice weather

[phoenix]

deer righting police

I make no apologies for my confusing and poorly structured writing. Should I post more, you will probably note that I can't spell either.

The original post should have said "frequenting the bouldering wall" at the coquitlam gym.

fugitive phoenix

[Rock_Climber]

Another thought is that if you're a rookie maybe you're putting too much emphasis on your hands. Focusing on good foot-work and body position can take a tremendous load off your hands.
Also, if you find your hands are getting in the way of climbing a lot theres always tape...

[5.4 Slayer]

As a beginner you need to up your fitness as a whole rather than just cranking hard on the bouldering wall. I think a book like "How To Climb 5.12" would be a great start. You don't have to be shooting for 5.12 to benefit from this book.

[stick]

sometimes too much calus is also a problem. they can get ripped off on holds if they are too big. you can use a pummice stone and scrub them off or I've even seen people use a cheese gratter.... that works well if they're sharp!!

[ctardi]

If you want to climb better, try a gym about 45 mins. to the east.

Joking aside,
It's normal, it's painful, and it's addicting. Get yourself a thing of hand jam, some tape, and have at 'er.

[phoenix]

Hello,

Ummm regarding the cheese grater suggestion, I gotta say Ewwww.

ctardi, what exactly is " a thing of hand jam?"

5.4 Slayer, thanks for the book recommendation. I couldn't find a copy locally, so I've got the book on order. I'm looking forward to reading it.

Thank-you for the information everyone,

Melodie

[ctardi]

http://www.handjam.ca/

It's an intense handcare product for climbers.

It's pricey, but it has worked wonders on my hands. You hardly need any, so a container lasts a long time. MEC sells it, so do a few of the local gyms.

[ctardi]

Pardon me,
Upon checking their website, the only two places in BC that are (supposed to be) selling it are MEC (in Vancouver), and The Rock Wall climbing gym (in Maple Ridge).