ATROCITIES AT THE KACODEMON

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
ctardi
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Post by ctardi » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:15 pm

meingh wrote:Great contribution to the discussion :evil:
Uhh thanks.


I say what's done is done, the holes arnt coming out, no use patching them, just as bad. As for putting up new holds, absolutly un needed. The old holds should get taken down (If there are any, im not familliar with the area). Unfortunatly, it's just something we are going to have to live with. Instead of getting angry with people past actions, why not spend the time educating them so that their future actions will not cause dispute?

gearheart
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Post by gearheart » Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:15 am

"Chip wall" is a good historical example of what not to do, and in defence of guidebook authors, in the the latest McLane guide it is referred to in pasing as a "defunct best-forgotten chipped line of a bygone area".
I don't think that those brightly coloured holds will last long, though - that is pushing it a little.
These days people use chip wall to practice dry-tooling in the winter and that is definitely preferable to having folks warm-up for their rockies trip by dry-tooling up routes at Chek.
Todd

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monkeyboy
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Post by monkeyboy » Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:36 pm

Is that bad? :D

Jason
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Post by Jason » Sat Mar 25, 2006 1:50 pm

It looks like some of the alpine boys were having fun with their tools this winter.

No big deal, cheer up.


Jay

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Post by PAW » Tue Mar 28, 2006 7:07 am

The holds have definetly been put up by people that are drytooling on that wall.

I climbed the left hand route yesturday and lets just say the holds don't look like they get any chalk put on them just spikey points.

Give it a try if you've been looking to try dry tooling lots of fun tool matching lockoffs, funky sidepulls and tricked out drop knee crampon work.

Does anyone know what it compares too grade wise. M6 :?: :?:
GO BIG OR GO HOME

GranitePilgrim
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Post by GranitePilgrim » Mon Apr 03, 2006 1:52 pm

A couple weeks ago, my friends and I ran into the guy who has been "rebuilding" the two drilled routes. He assured us that he had not drilled or chipped any new holds, but is just returning the routes to the way they were while they were originally made. He also made it clear that he absolutely did not advocate drilling or chipping of any sort, and that if there was a local consencus to deactivate the climbs he would do so willingly.


Is it wrong for an oportunist to profit from the poor ethics of someone else? Posibly, but for now no further harm is done.

As an aside, the routes suposedly go at 10d on the right and 12a on the left.

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