Very Green Climber.

[shaunjohnwood]

Hey all; I have just recently gone indoor again, pretty much for the first time [other than 2wice back in Toronto] with some actual real other climbers and I am seriously going to make a go of it at picking up the vertical pursuit as a new mistress.
First off. Gear. I have been browsing sites and visiting shops in search of simple low budget starter kit.
Suggestions by closest skilled climber I know include the following:

Arc'Teryx Targa harness;
MadRocks "orange" - I like the sharks and flash [shoes];
Black Diamond ATC belay;
"Lucky" biners;
chalk bag with seperate bag belt;
and to do some chin-ups [those werent suggested but very apparent.]

I would love any feedback or suggestions!

Thanks all!
SHAUN.

[tattooed_climber]

don't buy lucky....


first of all.....

BUY NICE OR BUY TWICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


ya....climbing is expensive....deal with it....

some of us have spent 10,000+ between gear, trips, tech clothing, guides, courses, etc.



cruise some of the articles at rockclimbing.com....good info for beginners, as well there's a beginners forum there too....


Arc'teryx harnesses are basic but their a local vancouver company, so f**k ya support them..

shoes, buy whatever fits nice...since you are new will will end up trashing them in a year

delay device, doesn't matter, the Black Diamond ATC is basic, but a good start....

but petzl biners, treat your self....as well,\ for gym, you only need one, get yourself an attache biner (small pear)

[Neumann]

don't buy lucky....


first of all.....

BUY NICE OR BUY TWICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I disagree. But yes, there are biners with better designs on the market...
I think their biners can stand up to any other comparable sized brand, for half the price.
If you are just starting, Lucky biners will do fine. Especially the lockers. I bought a pair when I first started, and I just retired them last week. 6 years. They still had plenty of life left, just want some new toys for this season. I would have done the same had I originally bought BDs or DMMs or whatever. Why spend the extra change?
Also: They are made by the same manufacturer as Metolius biners. And they are stronger than many others.

As for the other stuff,
I have an Arc'teryx harness. I really like it. In fact, its my second one.
They used to be a local company, but a few years ago Adidas(I think) bought them. Gear is still made locally though.

Bottom line for shoes and harness:
They must fit properly. Don't buy a Targa because someone said so. Buy one because it fits right. Same for the shoes. Ask a retailer. (Preferably someone behind the Climbing desk at MEC. Other retailers may not be so knowledgable) In fact, MEC has a great deal if you buy a harness package (harness, chalk bag, belay device, locker) and shoes. 10% off.
I do not work for MEC.


Anyway... Welcome to the sport. Climb safe.

P

[5.4 Slayer]

Umm, just a side not. Just because someone works behind the climbing desk a MEC doesn't mean they know sh*t. I've heard a few horror storys from people dealing with MEC staff (in the climbing department). It really doesn't matter what kind of shoes you buy, comfort is key!

[erock]

I've heard a few horror storys from people dealing with MEC staff (in the climbing department).

Yes i could definatly agree with that statement. I think the worst service i got as for a buying climbing equipment was at MEC. But i have gotten some really good service there as well. So it's really hard to say where it's best to go. maybe bring a knowledgeable friend? Anyways, i hate to complain but beware the staff at the northvan MEC. Maybe it's just because it's new but WOW, i've seen personally and heard of some pretty silly comments from those guys. Maybe PAW could also comment on this

And as far as buying new hardwear, you don't need $20 petzl williams lockers right when your starting. BD or even lucky will do.

Just ask whoever is helping you lots of questions. If they have no idea hopefully they'll get some one who does and everyone leaves happy.
good luck.

[psychedelic]

some of us have spent 10,000+ between gear, trips, tech clothing, guides, courses, etc

I figure I have spent about $15,000 on gear, cloths, and trips. I've never taken a course or had a guide. That also doesn't include the food, liquor(tons!) and pot costs. Pot and food make costs so high(HAHAHA), I will tell you how much I spent in 30 days this year. About 1200, that is only food and grass. It is really bad when by the time you get to yosemite you have stopped at 10 KFCs to get Family size popcorn chickens. All in 36 hours. Plus all the times you see a Dairy Queen or Jack in the Box, you gotta get a shake and frys. By the time you get to yosemite you have blown about 350.

I once had a guy at REI tell me that the Five Ten Anasazis were kids shoes! I was so pissed, I was like... do you even know what is what in this department? My own mother knows more about climbing than you ever will.

[Neumann]

[quote="5.4 Slayer"]Umm, just a side not. Just because someone works behind the climbing desk a MEC doesn't mean they know sh*t. I've heard a few horror storys from people dealing with MEC staff (in the climbing department). quote]

Really...?
I've got nothing but good things to say about the folks at MEC Vancouver. Always very informative and helpful. But I'm not there to see every shift, and haven't really needed any help or advice for a few years now....

[Cloudraker]

There's nothing wrong with Lucky biners....they're $5 each and they do the job.

[shaunjohnwood]

Hey everyone! Thanks for the feedback!
I went with all Black Diamond kit.
No shoes yet.
Comfort is a big concern it seems when starting out.
I am 6four, 195 lbs. with size 12 street feet.
I rented 12.5 at the gym and they were definetly tight but worked well...the 12's were way cramping.

Have barely tasted chalk and I cannot wait to touch rock!
GARY.

Again thanks all for contributing feedback!

[MCpl]

12s for one brand may not equate to the same feeling as another brand's 12. Type of shoe will also dictate comfort at certain sizes.

[Cara_Biner]

my rack is all black diamond...It is three years old and i haven't had any problem with them, and quite like them. As for shoes... go for comfort for your first pair, don't need the tight squeeze yet.