why does a cream of white mice get 4 stars?

[davereid]

I have climbed a lot of climbs in Squamish and the rating of this climb has always left me bewildered. Both guide books rate it as a 3/four star route. The route starts alright and then you find yourself on a spooky traverse into a dirty crack. Belay on a mossy, dead tree ledge. Then a short pitch to the top.

I have talked to out-of-towners that have come from the expereince quite frustrated. Do people actually love this route. Nothing like deidre, snake, centerfold, hairpin or other quite nice routes in or around this grade.

Any lovers of this route please tell me why. Maybe I am just unaware of its beauty.

[tattooed_climber]

hey, the first pitch is golden

spooky traverse???thats an awesome move....so fun

^^^me

4 stars???wtf...i thought it was three or two?...

as for the tree anchor belay, it was bomber from what i can recall...though, i seconded the first pitch and swung into lead, which i lead the second pitch with a biner full of tri-cams (since it was 5.5)>>>>so i didn't have alot of time to look at that 2nd tree all that well....

its at least bolted at the top

IS THAT FIXED SINGLE ROPE STILL TO THE RIGHT OF CREAM OF WHITE MICE??????
^^^i didn't bother to take a look at it last time

[Cloudraker]

The traverse from below the headwall over to the final corner crack pitch is the spooky one for me...not real difficult but a bit runout. Anyway, I'd have to agree that it's not a stellar route. Face climbing the arete on the first pitch is the funnest part of it for me.

[davereid]

When I said traverse, I meant the traverse on the second pitch to the third. I agree the first pitch is good (never thought there was a crux on it). I just feel the rest of it is nothing special. 4-star rating in the SQUAMISH SELECT. Most out-of-towners get lost on the second to third pitch and head up eliminating mice (not a bad idea) because they are not sure when to traverse right.

Climbed it in the fall before a road trip, and am still wondering what is so great about it.

[tattooed_climber]

OHHHHHHH! that part....MY BAD!....i forgot about that part all together....not that spookie....i though it was fun.....not hard, just a head game.....hate to take a lead fall though

[PAW]

The best climb in that area is THE CATS PYJAMAS.
Climbs the entire arete that the last pitch traverses into. Lots of bolts and a couple of cams. Plus to ropes to get down???

I agree that the spookie traverse takes away from the climb but then again its only 5.9.
Definetly a 2 star route in my book. But if you get frustrated with it climb The Cats Pyjamas for some fun steep face/ slab/ crack for the sustained grade of 10a??? or is it "B"

[psychedelic]

I'd have to agree that it isn't that great. I remember it being a fun little thing to solo, but I remember thinking that Slot Machine was funner. Plus that whole area can stay wet for a long time in my experiance. I'd rather just keep walking and go do something on the Tantulus Wall rather than climb most the bullet heads old routes. But it's still totally worth doing!

[Aaron]

OHHHHHHH! that part....MY BAD!....i forgot about that part all together....not that spookie....i though it was fun.....not hard, just a head game.....hate to take a lead fall though

Yes Phil a lead fall would be about as bad as the seconder falling on the big run out traverse on the last pitch......not that spookie.. ...you thought it was fun..
I don't recall you having much fun and thinking it was easy, when I looked down and saw you rag-dolling across the slab after you fell.

[tattooed_climber]

ya, cus i thought it was easy, so i used the micro hand holds as foot holds and i smeared my hands....but i took more than i could chew....that rolling fall was fun though....damn tyson and his LNT chalking i seriously need work on my slab....either too slow or rushing 'n fallin

aaron, still wanta do some route cleaning? how long are ya gonna be somewhat local?

[psychedelic]

Wait, I just looked at my guide book. It only has two stars... what book put it at that?