New Cams

[MCpl]

Which cams (brand and size) would you recommend to someone who is looking to rebuild or start a rack for Squamish crack?? Has anyone tried out some of the new ones on the market?

[5.4 Slayer]

I find the Metolious cams easier to place, which is great in desparate times, but the mid to large Black Diamond cams seem far more stable. The Black Diamonds have more range per cam but then with Metolious you'll have more pieces. I have no idea what the newer cams are like.

[tattooed_climber]

100% a #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots...(as well, these cams can be doubled up on, preferbly the #1 first)

for the smaller cams (1inch and smaller) anything will do...metolius is popular....aliens are nice, pricey and for the most part, their smaller profile isn't needed.....get a full set of DMM 3CUs....they're cheap and a good cam (i have a full set of these guys)


other bigger cams, WC tech friends are nice and more $$$ than BLack Diamond.....they got stronger springs which i like about them...but the Camalots will do you fine


as for NEWER cams...the Camalot C4s rock.....new trangos i've only handled in VALHALLA PURE and i don't know how well they place, same goes for the metolius SUPER CAM; only handled it.

for the most part, a cam is a cam....they all do the same thing....it comes down to cash, personal prefence and what places better for the area....Squamish is very forgiving and anything will do

[PAW]

aliens BLUE, GREEN, YEllOW small cams
tcu blue, yellow
camalots .3,.4, .75x2,1 x2, 2x2, 3, 4.
set of nuts and your up almost anything in the world.

Aliens are a god send. They will place easier than most in weird placements and there amazingly flexible stem will find them invaluable on many routes.
Metolius TCU cause there the gold standard.
Camalots cause nothing else feels as bomber when placed as a double axle.

[monkeyboy]

Dewalt 3/8" SDS... Bomber placements every time.