- Junior Member
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 11:36 pm
- Location: upper left coast
Even if you've just got the directions for the approach I'd be interested.
From 2001 guide:
Turn left off Cap Rd onto Fish Hatchery Road. park in 200m.
Walk 100m into forest to rim of canyon. Rap HydroPower (2 double-rope raps) or scramble down 200m to north then travrse downstream to base.
Capilano Classic is 4 pitches.
p1 blunt rib 5.8
p2 traverse right past blocks and up to ledge 10c
p3 left and through bulges to steep ramp 11a
p4 from left end of narrow belay ledge, climb crack, finish yarding up roots/dirt (loose) 10b
Hydro Power is to the right and has no start from the river. Two raps down to hanging belay about 30m off the deck then 2 long pitches out.
1) climb a long ptch of face with mostly bolts but a couple of nut placements, 11c
2) easier-angled mossy face climbing with 2 bolts, 10b.
The final 10b pitch has been cleaned up but you still need to transition from rock to forest floor...
Final Mixed pitch
As you did, the best is to rap in for the big fir at the top, but this should be done with care, once a couple summer's ago I core-shot my rope on seemingly innocent edges at the lip. I've been down there about three times and typically try to use a static rope for this fixed rappel, and rap on a Grigri. Less experienced climbers will find this rappel a little... creepy. I believe it is actually 45 m down to the base of the first 'good' pitch (10c).
Im not sure when the bolts were added but it has obviously received a retrofit, which IMO opinion is a good thing. There's still plenty of spice to find on this route, especially on the final exit pitch.
It's not for everyone, but fun times if you're into local adventure! If you still want a more modern topo and description I have it all drafted; feel free to contact me off-forum.
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