The Climber's Access Society of BC is requesting climbers not climb at Quarry Rock until issues are resolved. They posted the following notice:
The Climber's Access Society of BC is working diligently on the problems posed by Quarry Rock near, or on, the property of Deep Cove. Presently, two Directors are in personal contact with land mangers, lawyers and concerned stakeholders and will complete their reports shortly. At this point, we can not for certain say where Marina Cove property begins or ends and what agreements are in place that will indemnify the land owners in question.
Presently, we are asking for a cease of climbing and route building activities until the issues are resolved.
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb
Approximately 30 new climbs were established along the base of Quarry Rock (below the viewpoint) between 2012-2014. The developers of these routes, myself included, routinely hiked down the Baden Powell Trail from Indian River Road, to the popular Quarry Rock viewpoint, and then continued skiers right of the viewpoint down a minor unmarked trail to the cliffline and climbs below. Along this route is not one single PRIVATE PROPERTY marker, or anything to suggest that QR is private property. To the contrary actually. In fact the Baden Powell Trail and QR viewpoint receives tens of thousands of hikers per year. Other than the Grouse Grind it is the busiest section of trail on the North Shore. One would presume that recreation here, is welcome.
After three decades, a random collection of old bolts still exists near the summit viewpoint and a small number of established climbs (about four) were known to exist along the base. With the recent development of the crag, word got out and the climbing areas - Pirate's Landing and also The Marina - became an instant hit with the North Van crowd. It's a pleasant place to climb with a bunch of novice/intermediate slabby sport routes, with the vibe of a Smoke Bluffs crag.
In May 2015 several online entities received email from the Deep Cove marina, located at the end of Panorama Drive, informing climbers that the climbing exists on private property - owned by the marina - and that visitation should cease. Their concern is twofold:
1. Concern over liability
2. Access route: Climbers accessing the base of QR via Panorama Drive, and then sneaking across the business site of Deep Cove marina. Plenty of signage exists in this location to inform stray hikers that they are TRESPASSING on PRIVATE PROPERTY. Even with alternative, legitimate parking up on Indian River Road, and a bomber trail down to the base, some climbers ignored this, and brought the issue to a head.
Myself and CASBC reps researched the actual property boundaries and are convinced that the popular, insanely busy viewpoint, is indeed within this same tract of private land. But hiker visitation to the viewpoint seems perfectly acceptable, and the DNV Parks are actively upgrading the Baden Powell Trail that take you there.
With the limited contact that's been made we understand that the landowner appears to be somewhat open to the idea of climbing so long as he cannot be held liable, which if the Occupiers Liability Act (see CASBC website) has any clout, would indicate that they are not. Ideally, problem solved. Move forward...
The few of us actively working on this issue continue to solicit a response from the landowner, but still do not have an official response. Therefore, climbers are currently encouraged to obey the wishes of the landowner until further notice.
If anyone has any first-hand experience with these property owners or have suggestions for moving forward please speak up! I would like nothing more than to see the crag recognized as a legitimate resource for climbing in North Vancouver. Given the thousands of hikers that frequent the same location, I cannot see why not.
Although I am unable to offer advice with how to move things forward, I wish you (and others at CASBC) luck on this, as I love the climbing there. I have hiked the trail down from Indian River Road and past the lookout rock and agree that it is a great hike and a perfect solution to accessing these climbs (I used to access from Panorama Drive back when parking was permitted there).
Please feel free to pm me if there is any way I can help you move this forward.
Someone probably needs to put some signs up, similar to what British Properties have placed at the trailheads to Godman Creek, below the view point to limit/eliminate traffic down to the marina. Hikers (maybe even more than climbers?) use this as a shortcut back to Deep Cove after hiking Baden Powell.
I wish the CASBC luck and hope this gets resolved before the cliffs get too green again. Since the closure I've gone a few times to the Tower of Power bluff, which is a great year-round as it's fast drying, and only 10 mins down from the road, with a great view! Some of the routes are getting that black lichen cover and need more traffic. BTW, are you thinking of finishing the closed project climbers right of Boys from the Bay? It has remained one of the cleanest, probably because it's the best exposed/fastest to dry - and also quite blank.
Glad you've enjoyed those routes. Bouldering in that area leaves a lot to be desired, but it's there.. The top of Tower of Power often requires a clean up since hikers like to lob garbage off the viewpoint directly above the climbs. This doesn't affect the climbs, just the top where you leave your pack and setup the anchors. I fully scrubbed that wall off about 3-4 years ago and agree that it dries quickly and has a nice view. The rock is amazingly sticky but despite my efforts I have not been successful sending that project. Though listed as closed, I'm not that attached to it. If you feel up to 12+ steep slab moves than have at 'er! As for the climbing at the base (Marina gully and Pirates Landing), I fear that a year or two of dormancy due to this closure will allow the green plague to return in force. A shame really, considering how much time and effort Andy Traslin and myself spent scrubbing there. If the area becomes accessible to climbers in the future I'm quite certain someone will have to do some community service to refresh the climbs. It won't be me.
As for the approach, you are correct that the Indian River Drive approach takes no more time than parking in Deep Cove and walking along Panorama Drive. But since the latter is a major NO GO anyways (this was the initial cause of the closure) because you are trespassing on the marina property, the only way to legitimately approach the area is via the Baden Powell Trail to the main viewpoint, then down the side trail to the base. But, ongoing discussions with the marina manager and owner regarding their concern for liability have not been resolved, and they are firm that, until they are confident that they can not be held liable, the area be deemed CLOSED for climbing. CASBC has prepared an excellent summary documenting the climbing / access situation for the marina insurers and lawyers, who are currently reviewing our suggestions. Certainly a big bright DISCLAIMER sign is in order, and easily installed. But we can't do that without their permission. The District of North Van apparently pay the liability insurance for the Baden Powell Trail to the viewpoint, and their might be an opportunity to work that angle. Either way, discussions are ongoing. The Tower of Power, however, is not on this property.
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