Angel's Crest - Dangerously Loose Block

[Mal]

Wasn't sure where to post this but thought it was worth mentioning. We climbed Angel's Crest on Tuesday and there is a very significant suspect block/flake on the top of the final 10a pitch (Pitch 12 in Squamish Select). The flake is embedded into unconsolidated dirt at the very top of the pitch and is about 30 cm tall. It is climber's left of the small boulder that sits at the top of that pitch. Both my partner and I reefed then mantled on it to pull onto the belay ledge. As I mantled the block shifted down about 5 or 10 cm - I'm pretty sure it's going to come out soon. While the belayer would be largely protected if it comes out, it could hit/damage the leader's rope, potentially hit the access trail to High Plains Drifter, and would fall down on the area of Borderline. The route was very busy Tuesday so I didn't want to attempt to remove it or even give it a serious 'wiggle test' to see how loose it actually was. Perhaps a kind local soul could go up and have a look? Or anyone else heading up that route. I live in Victoria and don't make it to Squamish too often.

[BK]

the second to last pitch? That thing is massive, more like a cubic meter of stone. I pulled on it myself two days ago and couldn't help noticing the suspect appearance, although there was no movement. I did see that if it does move, its going to slide easily on a sloper. That sounds like quite a serious situation as it is damn near impossible to avoid after some muscular crack climbing.

Thanks for the warning. Until winter comes, allowing for a safe trundle, best solution may be to anchor it back.

Incidentally another bad one exists on a low fifth spot half way up, mid way throught the forested hiking section. Similar story, slightly better consequences. That one is marked with an X and is more easily avoided but its primed to go none the less. This one is right at the "totem pole".

Heads up and if anyone wants to sacrifice about twenty feet of rope or prussiks to tie that sucker back, please do as you pass by

[BK]

Mal - could you confirm this block is at top of the 2nd last pitch? I see you say "clmbers left of Boulder". Your block is avoidable? Could it be hauled back from the edge?

[Mal]

Hi BK,

Yep, that's correct - it's on the second last pitch. Essentially at the belay platform which you crawl along to reach the 5.8 chimney. I think with some care it could probably be hauled back from the ledge - although it's impossible to tell how big it actually is. The shape of the block/flake is triangular so it could likely be lassoed pretty easily. You could climb around it to the right side (harder exit move) or carefully mantle to the left of it. However, it is the obvious 'go to' jug at the top. I was thinking a temporary solution could be to rap it in 'warning' flagging tape. Not ideal though.

[BK]

It dosn't sound like the monster I was concerned with, which no way in hell you could safely haul back.

[squamish climber]

How about this loose block. Any update - is it still there?

[CeeJayC]

It's still there. There's also a loose block on pitch 5 (5.10a) that everyone yards on-it was moving a fair bit Saturday.