New pitch on Slhanay: The Basics 5.10b.

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jammer
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New pitch on Slhanay: The Basics 5.10b.

Post by jammer » Tue Jul 07, 2015 1:02 pm

Greetings,
There is a new pitch on the right side of Slhanay: The Basics 5.10b 40m. Climb as one pitch with a single 60m rope (2 20m raps with bolted stations), or continue to the top in 1-2 more pitches of 5.6. Parts of it share with an old overgrown route called 'Natrual Mystic'. I've included the old topo for natural mystic in the photo link.

Getting there:
Follow the trail uphill from Jungle Warfare, and past Flight Simulator, until it branches right and there is a marked trail left (just marked with a cairn). It's aprox 50m uphill from Flight Simulator. It should be obvious when you get to the base. It's the line that is clean.

Gear:
SR to #4. Doubles are helpful from #.5-#2.

Description:
P1: Follow the hand crack up and left into the next. Continue up the chimney and crazy flakes until you can step left of the roof. Fingers and hands lead up a corner and another crack change into a wide crack. 40m.
P2: Climb up and right through a few ledges till below a sloping corner. 5.6 10m.
P3: Continue up the corners to belay on the jungle warfare ledge. 5.6 15m.
Can easilly link P2-3. However, they're are still a bit scrubby.

Photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xrcwtbl32c1s ... JtXRa?dl=0

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