squamish via ferrata

[Jonny5]

how will they stop someone from doing this unguided?

[tobyfk]

how will they stop someone from doing this unguided?

Interesting question!

I wish the term "via ferrata" weren't used for this kind of closed-access commercial thing. In europe, via ferrata are just extensions to the normal trail system, open to all.

[marc_leclerc]

how will they stop someone from doing this unguided?

Interesting question!

I wish the term "via ferrata" weren't used for this kind of closed-access commercial thing. In europe, via ferrata are just extensions to the normal trail system, open to all.

Yes! And they are fun for people, providing safe little adventures for anyone without detracting from local climbs. Squamish and the sky pilot area could use a couple of Europe style ferratas. It would be better overall, in my personal view, for the community than digging out and bolting more ultra moderate 'climbing' routes. From what I've seen the ferratas in Europe are great opportunities for everyone to have fun in a mountain-ish environment, and they have nothing to do with actual climbing.

[marc_leclerc]

Yes yes, all true! but to climb them still requires an expensive rope, cams and whatnot, and (in North America it seems) has some sort of 'xtreme' stigma attached to the whole thing to non climbers. The ferrata is an inexpensive (once it's up) way for families, or anyone who wouldn't normally seek out 'climbing' to get out and have a little adventure! I think our culture could use things like that. Just my thoughts while traveling in Europe.

The ferrata and rock climbing are very separate things in my mind and both have their place in the community. Via ferrata has nothing to do with boosting the popularity of climbing which is already plenty popular, it's about introducing people who wouldn't climb to the idea of spending time in the mountains.

I hardly speak for my own personal interest at all here, I'm not stoked an riding a gondola to go ladder climbing with a bunch of people all around, but for those people it's probably a great thing! Meanwhile I'll be somewhere completely different doing my own thing.

[Jonny5]

Sounds like fun but I can't imagine paying $ to do it.

[Jason4]

I have very limited experience in Europe climbing via ferrata but that left me wishing to see more of it in NA for the same reasons that Marc mentioned. More people experiencing the mountains is good for our mountain culture.

Via ferrata routes must be extremely expensive and labor intensive to put up compared to a sport route of similar length and someone has to pay for that. If it comes from a private group on land that they have exclusive rights to use they should be compensated for that work otherwise there isn't any incentive for them to put the route up in the first place. If the general public wants more routes like this that don't require a guide then they should be educated about one of the access groups, put money into the community and voice that they want that money to go into developing more via ferrata routes.

[BK]

Cerro Torre for instance!

[marc_leclerc]

Cerro Torre for instance!

('Starts sharpening chisels)

[BK]

You must admit, its a little curious that on one hand most of us ( me too) can't abide a totally coolio via ferrata up the Torre, then with a casual glance around our own backyard decide that a whole bunch scattered around our own mountains or sea side granite monoliths would be totally awesome. What the hell is that all about?

Is it that one lump of rock is more sacred than another?

Just asking. Just so you know, I've drilled a few myself but I think we better keep a lid on it. In my opinion, via ferratta's should be limited to short annoying bits of fifth class messing up a perfectly good hike that anyone can do. As soon as you need a rope to climb an iron ladder, you have to wonder why. Generally, the mountains are best for avoiding amusement parks and any shmoe can do that with a ropeless scramble or hike. I can easily envision the west ridge of sky Pilot, a brilliant scramble relatively un polluted by iron, producing a fatality or two in the coming seasons, resulting in lengths of chains being installed here and there.


All I'm saying is sh*t like this could get out of hand in a big way, especially if you consider that to date the significant via ferrata's are corporate constructions ( CMH in particular, on crown land) with a corporate goal in mind. I generally agree with the well stated above comments but I'd just be cautious about green lighting the concept. Some city slickers might get some pretty wierd ideas all of a sudden in terms of their entitlement to gain any summit however they like. Such as The chief. Straight up some unclaimed blank slab in between free climbs. Like Cerro Torre.

[marc_leclerc]

In my opinion, via ferratta's should be limited to short annoying bits of fifth class messing up a perfectly good hike that anyone can do. As soon as you need a rope to climb an iron ladder, you have to wonder why.

Some city slickers might get some pretty wierd ideas all of a sudden in terms of their entitlement to gain any summit however they like. Such as The chief. Straight up some unclaimed blank slab in between free climbs. Like Cerro Torre.

I agree on all accounts Bruce. It needs a lid kept on it, and doesn't belong on actual climbing terrain. The ones I've were all on shitty bushy class 3 ledge systems and seemed pretty harmless. But you are right, it's a sketchy topic as everyone's going to have differing opinions and what is appropriate and what's not. I don't want good scrambles ruined either.

[Jason4]

I agree that establishing via ferrata routes requires a lot of caution and awareness of the area but that isn't much different than putting in a sport route. The via ferrata routes that I climbed in Germany and the others that I saw but didn't climb all ended at huts that were also accessed via gondola. It's pretty easy to draw a line between routes that go up to spoiled summits that are a more challenging alternative and routes that are man made for the simple convenience of being the easiest (or only for some/most people) way up.