New Crag " The Playground"

[sset]

The Playground Crag

Approach, Turn down mamquam FSR keep driving past bridge then make your first left on Powerhouse springs FSR. Head down this road until a massive boulder appears on you right ( swampthing boulder)
About 50 m down the road from swampthing on your left you will see the glowing white wall amongst the green. Park here walk in 1 min from car.
Bottom of crag has been cleared and heavily worked to make it kid friendly. Please do not head around to top of crag for toproping, there is a very easy bolted 5.5 route on the far left that will give you access to the top.

Route description left to right,

1.       5.4 “Four” TR
Toprope the farthest right low angle well featured line left low angle well featured wall
(fa Kye Egan-Robinson) 10m

2.       5.5 “Follow the Leader” bolted
4 bolt well featured line, was my sons first lead at 4 yrs old
(fa Kye Egan- Robinson)

3.       5.6 “Lost and Found” TR
Top rope the the small angled feature heading towards the slab at the top
(fa Samara- Robinson)

4. 5.6 "enough!" TR
Toprope , start as for Lost and found and head towards gully, step over gully following
features to the top.
(fa Tess egan, Jay Robinson)

5. 5.7 " Chutes and ladders" Bolted
Head up low andle ramp and trend right alongside the small roof. rend left alongside small roof.
(fa Tess egan, Jason robinson)

6. 5.10 " No Tag Backs" Bolted
Head up easy ramp towards small roof, pull small roof and walk to the top.
Trending right to avoid small roof makes it a grade easier
fa Jason Robinson, Tess Egan

7. 5.8 "Skipping Stones" Bolted
Start on a bit harder ground , then walking up easy ledges to sharp pointing
outcrop clip bolt above pointy ledge and mantle the top. Head for anchors on either left or right
routes
(fa Tess Egan, Jason Robinson)

8. 5.9 "Chucky Chucky Four Corrners" Bolted
Start with minor difficulty through many little incuts to juggy rail after clipping 5th bolt
tren left and follow ramp to the top. (fun)
(fa, tess Egan, Jason Robinson)

9. 5.10b "Shits and Giggles in the Lake" bolted
wall now begins to get steeper with a little more difficulty pull a fun little roof
leads to fun jugs with a slab transfer to the top.
(fa, Tess Egan , Jason Robinson

10. 5.11D "Parental Guidance" bolted
Much harder moves then the last one , Sustained climbing with a cruxy move at second bolt. Its not
over till its over.
(fa, jason Robinson, Tess Egan)

11. 5.11B "Playground Bully" Bolted
fun climbing, crux comes below the third bolt,
. Fun jugs at the top
fa, jason robinson, Tess Egan

12. 5.10b "recess" Bolted
Super fun juggy climbing, it takes some thought in the start but mindless jug hauls you to the top
fa Jason Robinson, Tess Egan

13. 5.11d " Wet The Bed" bolted
Name comes from the length of time it took to dry, Start on some easy climbing off of
tree root into a difficult boulder move midway over the bump.
fa Jason Robinson, Tess Egan


14. 5.11A "Pee Stain" bolted
furthest right line, Head up to the short face.
fa Tess Egan, Jason Robinson


Route length 10m- 15m, bolted
Approach; stones throw from car.
Tess Egan, Jason Robinson and Kye Egan-Robinson .Please don’t leave any garbage and be respectful of each other.
this crag was developed with families in mind so that being said we ask Guides not use this crag for guiding please as it would take over the whole crag and leave no room for anyone else. Thanks
Please do not cut down any trees! They provide exccellent shade in hot summer days and the leaves are gone in spring and fall when you want the sun. I can be contacted at thenaturegirl77@yahoo.ca

[sset]

topo is also at cliff

[staven]

Climbed here today with the kids. 5.4s on the left, 5.11s on the right, and everything in between. Partial shade / sun, easy approach, flat base, super fun steep sports climbing. Recommend 100%. I haven't z-clipped in a while, but it's possible here.

[sset]

chains will be added to middle route "no Tag backs" to replace taken draws sometime this week

[staven]

I pulled your fixed rope up to the top of the crag and coiled it up on a ledge so it wouldn't be in the way while our kids were climbing. It is still fixed to the two draws at the anchor. I don't know anything about the other two missing draws, but the anchors of No Tag Backs had no biners on Saturday.

Wes.

[sset]

Thanks Wes.

The rope is no longer on ledge and there were fixed biners on No Tag Backs oh well
I'll be putting a chain up there this week sometime. Problem solved

[staven]

That is too bad, great work on the crag. I don't know what anyone would want with a 10m piece of old rope and four well used biners.

[tobyfk]

Paid a visit this evening with my 7 year old son. A great kids' venue. Looks like a lot of work was involved in the scrubbing and base clearance. Thanks!

[Joolie]

Enjoyed a fun afternoon here. The two 10b's and the 11b offered some very fun, quality climbing. Noticed however that maybe not all of the bolts installed were stainless steel? Looked like there was some corrosion and rust starting already behind a few of the washers on the 11b and the lefthand 10b. Anyhow just a heads up, thanks for all the effort and hard work!

[JARO]

i

[sset]

Want to add this to topo bbut some reason I cant edit.
This is a new crag so there is some loose rock as well there are tics in the area
Cougars and bears have also been known to be seen down here. The crag can get a bit dusty from the fsr If there is heavy traffic.
Please wear a helmet and have your kids wear one.
P.m. shade
A.m sun/shade

Also a huge thank you to the party that added the chains on "no tag backs"
Awesome Thanks again!!

[BruceMacLachlan]

Is there a GPS/google map for this location?

[Tegan]

You can find topos for both on the QuickDraw Publications website under free topos.