Looking for info for right side of Lunch Break Wall

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dmancan
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Looking for info for right side of Lunch Break Wall

Post by dmancan » Wed Aug 28, 2013 9:13 pm

I was curious if anybody has information on the new routes on the right side of Lunch Break Wall. Thanks for your help.

dmancan
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Re: Looking for info for right side of Lunch Break Wall

Post by dmancan » Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:00 am

I think they were worked on by Robin Barley. The right-most climb is a very short 2 bolt climb--perhaps 10a. The next one to the left is a 3 bolt line that's quite tricky & nubbin-y (for me) at the top--perhaps 11a/b. Specifically, I was wondering what these two routes were named, graded, and first ascentionists. Then there seems to be 2 or 3 more lines left of those 2.

I've searched the webs and nothing seems to be written about these 5 climbs yet. Anybody? Robin?

hevyduty
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Re: Looking for info for right side of Lunch Break Wall

Post by hevyduty » Thu Aug 29, 2013 9:59 pm

hevy here, the routes where cleand and climbed by Emile Villeneuve ,myself.and Fernando Vie. The 2 routes u climbed are called Hevy dutys tools 5 10- ,Pocket fun 11-. there are 6 routes from left to right 1Fleur de lys 5.5 2 Arete moi 5 .9 3 Trickey 5.11 4 Triforce 11- 5 Pocket fun 11- 6 Hevy dutys tools 10- moving left 5 10 climbing straight up. Hope u enjoyed the routes Hevy

dmancan
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Re: Looking for info for right side of Lunch Break Wall

Post by dmancan » Fri Aug 30, 2013 2:55 pm

Thanks for the response and work you're doing Hevy. Yeah, I liked both climbs and think Pocket Fun is an appropriate name. I've yet to do it on lead but gave it a few burns on TR and it ripped the toes of my shoes up--that's fresh granite! I think slab aficionados will appreciate the addition. Again, thanks.

Artem
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Re: Looking for info for right side of Lunch Break Wall

Post by Artem » Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:58 pm

I was working on some unknown (to me) route on the right side of Lunch Break Wall. It's 3 bolts, immediatly right of the large crack/chimeny. Really delicate and fun up top. Any ideas which one of the climbs you put up this is? Picture and the line below:

http://i.imgur.com/UthvFhZ.jpg

hevyduty
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Re: Looking for info for right side of Lunch Break Wall

Post by hevyduty » Thu Oct 02, 2014 6:43 am

Hey Artem the route your working is Trickey as u may have noticed the finish is techy. Emille is a boulderer ,he's pretty good on slabs !I found it hard just following him ,Hevy

Artem
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Re: Looking for info for right side of Lunch Break Wall

Post by Artem » Fri Oct 03, 2014 3:17 pm

Hey Hevy,

Thanks for setting up the route. I had a blast working it = D

It's my first route at that grade and was a lot of fun to project. Took me 3 days of hangdogging ~1 hour each time before I could lead it clean. The sequence at the top is really delicate but once you find the right depressions in the slab it goes (carefully).

Artem

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