New bolts right of Slipping Clutch, Bluffs

[tobyfk]

We did Slipping Clutch at Black Zawn today. Just to its right, someone has squeezed in another bolt line. Very recently, I guess, as there is still dust from the drilling visible. Anyone know any details?

[mcfly]

That is "Squeaky Wheel". It has 2 bolts and 3 or 4 placements for small cams (blue alien to 0.4 C4)
I think it is around 10b but would like some more opinions.

Start beside Slipping Clutch and take an exposed & slightly runout rising traverse rightward to the first bolt. Climb straight up on rough crystals between Slipping Clutch & Joe Hill placing small protection in a couple horizontals along the way. There is a second bolt near the top (adjacent to the 2nd bolt on Slipping Clutch) to protect a ledge fall - climb straight up to this bolt and then onward to another small horizontal. Climb straight up from the final horizontal and trend right to finish.

I tried to place the 2 bolts where they would not interfere with bolts on the existing climbs therefore it is a bit runout in spots (just like the other 2 climbs on that cliff).

[hevyduty]

hey mr Fly good job! i actually cleaned all the lower wall about 6 yrs ago but didn't get back to it .I also climbed 2 routes to the left of Jhill didn't put anchors in though .Thanks for not sanitizing the route !! will give u some feed back soon.cheers hevy

[mcfly]

Thanks Hevy, let me know what you think of the grade once you've climbed it.
The other 2 routes there are great as they are and I definitely did not want to sanitize them.
I started scrubbing left of Slipping Clutch back in 2003 and also top-roped a few lines and variations around that cliff. I might finally get around to finishing them up this fall/winter.