Ultraviolet Cliff, Gondola Top Station

[Optimally-Primed]

Ultraviolet Cliff (formerly "White Rock") hosts 16 routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.real-hard. The crag is a stroller-friendly 200m walk east of the gondola top-out along the road. Selling points:
- Short approach once the gondola is in
- A true south face to gather up sun rays
- Steepness: all climbs are vertical to overhanging
- Excellent rock
Colin Haley and friends developed the crag this summer. He's run out of summer. So he's opening the crag and the unfinished projects (in green in the photos below) to interested parties.

More Info about Ultraviolet Cliff

Route LInes

Eye Candy

Nick on Dead Bernardo Crack (.11c)


Seth on Ruby's Corner (.10a)


Fern on Emerald Frond (.9)


The situation

[davidbr]

How's the condition of the Shannon Creek FSR - any chance of getting up it in a 2wd car?

[imnotnate]

Some friends bottomed out their Jetta trying to get up towards Habrich the other day and bailed....

4WD truck definitely your best bet.

[Tegan]

I tried going up there earlier this sumer but saw a new sign "no trespassing blast zone" was that the wrong road? Its the same road that you take to access sky pilot isnt it?

[davidbr]

Thanks for the info. We took a drive part-way up yesterday, and it did look pretty rough. Didn't see any sign about blasting, but we might not have made it that far.

[Optimally-Primed]

The road was 2WD earlier in the summer. With heavy usage, it deteriorated to 4WD conditions by mid-August.

[davidbr]

There are 3 new moderate routes near the top of the gondola.

'Generator X'
5.8.
FA: Noelle Phillips, 14-6-15.
Start in a small dihedral at the left end of Ultraviolet Cliff, left of a large tree. Make a couple of tricky moves off the ground until you can move right to parallel cracks which are followed to a short chimney. Step right past a bolt to a good ledge at the base of a hand crack in a dihedral. Follow the crack to the anchors.
Gear to #4 with extras of #2 and #3.



Walking a bit left and uphill from 'Generator X', you will come to some yellow tape on the left. Follow the yellow-taped trail for about 5 minutes and you will come to another crag with a couple more moderate lines on it.

'The Sound of an Old Man Texting'.
5.7.
FA: Dave Brown, Noelle Phillips, 14-6-15.
This is the first route you will see as you approach. Start off a treed ledge below the obvious offwidth and right-facing dihedral.
Climb the offwidth (hand-sized protection can be placed in the back) to a finger-crack layback and a good stance. Climb a slabby, unprotectable, dihedral to a leftward-rising tcu-sized crack. Take the crack leftward to a 4th class ramp and rappel station. Rappel or take the dark slab above to the top of the cliff.
One rappel takes you to the top of 'Mountains in the Distance' and another rappel takes you to the base of that route.
Gear to #3 with an emphasis on finger and tcu sizes.

'Mountains in the Distance'
5.4.
FA: Marie Cummings, Noelle Phillips, 4-7-15.
To reach this route, instead of traversing out onto the ledge where the previous route starts, follow more yellow tape down and around to the next ledge.
Climb the left-facing corner which is mostly hands to off-fists.
Gear to #5.