More new lines at Topshelf.

[jred]

There are several new routes at Topshelf, here they are; Just left of Eye Catcher is a crack the leads to a nice bit of face climbing on bolts. 5.11? Harry Young, route not named yet. Just left of Shock Collars is a long interesting crack that can be ended mid-way at 5.10+ or taken all the way to the top at 11+, Take Me Softly, 40 metres, Jason Green. Further to the left are two more pitches, one is a long #2-#4 Camalot sized crack that is about 33metres long called Finger crack 5.10 Jesse Redden. To the left of Finger Crack is a short off width, called David Hasselhoffwidth 5.10+? Jesse Redden. I have realized the absurdity of listing routes like this so I have decided to stop far before the list is complete. There are updated topos soon to come.

[greenerj]

Couple lines to add to that list would be:

1. "Ludovico Technique" 5.11b just right of "Tripet Out" is a separate wall with a finger crack running mid height.

2. "Soft Boiled" 5.11c the main corner above "Fine By Me" and "Meltdown" Still a bit crumbly but will get better with Traffic..

[greenerj]

Couple more!!

1. "Demon Sweat" 12d, 40m. climb "Meltdown" or "Alright by Me" rest at the ledge and continue up the slanting crack with a hard crux midway. Brilliant!!!!
F.A. Jason Green

2. "59" 11c, 30m. another amazing crack at the upper shelf. Starts with a demanding flare protected by 2 bolts followed by steep clean jamming.
F.A. Harry Young aka the "Shark"

[jred]

There is also a stunning, new, overhanging off-width located five minutes up the trail to the left of the main wall. Gorgar 5.10+ f.a. J. Redden. A short hike up leads to another large wall with a few new pitches. 59, 5.11c f.a. Harry Young, this route is amazing. A flare with two bolts leads to steep jams and an overhanging finish. At the left side there are two finished routes. A 5.12b sport route up a corner and a short high quality overhanging finger crack The Sulker 5.11c f.a. J. Redden.

[greenerj]

Well done man!! Amazing effort!!

[Moos]

My friend and I were the only ones up there today, this seems like a great crag to avoid the summer crowds.

We climbed Finger Crack and Softboiled, both of them excellent climbs. I took a close look at Demon Sweat on the way down, which looks amazing!

Some notes on Finger Crack: I'm pretty sure it's longer than 33m to the anchor. With my 80m rope I made it back down with maybe a meter or two to spare, I don't think a 70m would make it. You can easily lower to the anchor of the Hasselhoffwidth, though. Also, be carefull when pulling the rope, we got it very stuck in a small constriction within the Hasselhoffwith and had to climb back up to free it.

Thanks for all the work on the area! I'm excited to check out the upper Shelf next time.

[Peter]

Some notes on Finger Crack: I'm pretty sure it's longer than 33m to the anchor. With my 80m rope I made it back down with maybe a meter or two to spare, I don't think a 70m would make it. You can easily lower to the anchor of the Hasselhoffwidth, though. Also, be carefull when pulling the rope, we got it very stuck in a small constriction within the Hasselhoffwith and had to climb back up to free it.

.

No, no, no, Jesse swears its only 33m, it's just that all our ropes have the wrong length marked on them....

[slhughes]

it's amazing how jesse is ALWAYS right. my rope got caught when pulling it too.

[Peter]

Jay Green on Demon's Sweat

[slhughes]

got on '59' today. this is an exceptionally good, demanding 5.11. anybody into burly trad routes of this level, should do themselves a favour and get up there. good effort harry