multipitch recommendations

[supafly]

After some recommendations for a 5.8 leader, what I've led up until now:

Banana Peel - wasn't a huge fan of the runouts
Diedre - nice climb, final moves of the final pitch seemed a bit spicey.. slippery slab move to get up to the exit crack with no pro to be seen for a looong way
Skywalker - great climb
Rambles - fun but short and simple
AMO wall - 5.7/5.8 variations
Star chek - A little runout in places, crux was getting down the talus slope!

Was thinking of heading up Calculus crack, never had to gear belay but it shouldn't be an issue. Any other recommendations?

[bennygroundh20]

If you managed the routes you just listed fairly easy, Calculus would be a good option, the direct start makes the route worth while for sure and would be a good next step at 5.9 with lots of protection options and plenty of positive holds. If your okay with building a gear anchor id say go for it! a longer option would be the buttface, 5.9 with great gear and positive holds.

[tobyfk]

- mosquito/phlemish dance/ sparkies/ then walk the ledge off or do wonderland to finish ...

The "Sparky goes to Wonderland" link is excellent but 10b not an 8. (That's the guidebook grade not just my opinion.)

[smallman]

Snake (5.9) is one of my favorite multipitch routes on the Apron. It has a couple spicy traverses on it. I normally link the first and second pitches together to better protect one of these traverses.

[supafly]

Thanks for the suggestions, I have done the Smoke Bluff Connection, albeit mostly on second.

Snake - I think I'll wait a little while before getting to it.

Butt face - I'm put off a little by the 5.9 pitch right now.

Thanks for your lengthy suggestions bearbreeder, I've done Over the Rainbow on second and thought it was quite steady, not so sure about the lead yet I fell off the crux of Slot Machine! I think the hold was a little greasy though.

It looks like Calculus might be the best option.

[Drew]

It's the prime time for alpine climbing. If you're looking for long routes at 5.8 and under, get out of Squamish and head up into the hills. You'll learn more doing one multipitch alpine route than you will on 5 Apron routes. Something like the Blackcomb Buttress or West Buttress of the South Peak (WBSP) of the Old Settler or the East Ridge of Rexford would fit your bill.

[Fulch]

Snake is a rad route! It was my first 9 multi-pitch and we had a lot of fun. Ended up finishing the last pitch in the dark. You totally got it! Just relax and have fun. It's a tad run out in some spots but just take your time. Nothing like a little challenge. Take some slings or extendable draws for the last 9 pitch.

[supafly]

Interesting thought Drew.

Is there an alpine guide for the region?

[Drew]

Kevin McLane's Alpine Select is your best option at the moment. I heard he is working on a new edition, which may mean that the previous edition is close to being sold out, but you can still find copies around.

Or you could just go to the Bugaboos. Lots of classic, popular, 5.8 and under routes there, with no bushwacking.

[natsdad]

Thanks for the suggestions, I have done the Smoke Bluff Connection, albeit mostly on second.

Snake - I think I'll wait a little while before getting to it.

Butt face - I'm put off a little by the 5.9 pitch right now.

Thanks for your lengthy suggestions bearbreeder, I've done Over the Rainbow on second and thought it was quite steady, not so sure about the lead yet I fell off the crux of Slot Machine! I think the hold was a little greasy though.

It looks like Calculus might be the best option.

Hi Supafly --

I'm a bit late to this discussion, having just returned from the Bugaboos and another trip. I like all the suggestions above, and would add some good (and well protected) "single" pitch 5.8's around Squamish for your consideration:

Cardu Crack (bring two ropes or one 70 m rope to rappel off) -- it is long and interesting, and while you're in that 'hood, lead Klahanie crack, too. These two are great leads, fun climbing and accept as much pro as you want. Another single pitch (I know, I know) climb that is a great lead for new-ish leaders is Laughing Crack. High Mountain Woody is another long, moderate, fun climb that accepts tons of solid gear.

If you are getting comfortable leading 5.9, but are concerned with the runouts on Snake, give 'Rock On' a try - it has one 5.10a move that is very well protected with small nuts/cams. If you lead Calculus crack, add Memorial Crack, but bring two ropes - or one 70m to rappel off. BTW, the 5.9 move on the butt face is well protected by bolts.

And if you can make it out to the Bugaboos, there is a long list of moderate, multi-pitch climbs: W ridge of Pigeon, Kain route on Bugaboo, NE ridge of Bugaboo, Kraus-McCarthy on Snowpatch, Ears Between on Crescent Tower, Eastpost normal route, Brenta Spire normal route...

Enjoy!

Steve

[NateDoggOG]

Rock On is super awesome, but personally I felt that one pitch was quite tricky for the grade.