Rusty Bolt Replacement

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Peter
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Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by Peter » Thu May 09, 2013 11:32 am

Work is being carried out to replace rusted bolts on selected routes in Squamish. Kelly Franz just replaced the bolts on Youngblood using his own money and some from CASBC. Kelly and I just replaced the bolts and anchor on Archives and will replace the bolts on Technical Ecstasy. That hardware is being fully funded by CASBC. If anyone has any other routes in mind or want to help let me know.

Peter

smallman
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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by smallman » Sat May 11, 2013 7:02 am

The anchor to Daydream Believer at Ronin's Corner really needs replacement. I would be willing to do this if CASBC supplied hardware.

J Mace
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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by J Mace » Sun May 12, 2013 12:05 pm

Anchor for Fata Morgana needs to be replaced, the rope around the tree is done. The tree anchor atop hangover for the crappy face route to the left is also shot. Thanks for all the work

dakine
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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by dakine » Mon May 13, 2013 7:10 am

thanks for all the work and keeping us alive!
DJ 1%

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MorganM
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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by MorganM » Mon May 13, 2013 1:34 pm

I would be happy to help out if you need a hand. My schedule is pretty flexible just let me know.

Many thanks for all the effort in keeping Squamish and accessible and safe place to climb!

Peter
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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by Peter » Tue May 14, 2013 12:53 pm

Please see the following link if you want to get involved: http://www.access-society.ca/retrobolt

hevyduty
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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by hevyduty » Thu May 23, 2013 9:47 am

Just to let you know had bit of time yesterday fixed the anchors on Daydream Believer. I also fixed the anchors above Tailwind/sting in the tail at Bughouse heights ,removed the chain from the tree.Iwill get to Fata morgana this weekend hevy.

J Mace
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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by J Mace » Mon May 27, 2013 1:55 pm

^^^(climbers left) and yes it needs to be replaced. Also, not sure if people even climb auntie gravity and such, but it is in the "select" guide, it has a 1/4" that needs to be replaced and all the bolts on the route to the left probably need to be replaced as well. Crag rat has new bolts. The crag is as dirty as it was 10 years ago but is still climbable.

hevyduty
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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by hevyduty » Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:34 pm

Hey guys finally got round to fixing the anchors on Fata Morgana theres a set of rap rings right of the tree !Hevy

natsdad
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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by natsdad » Wed Jun 19, 2013 7:22 pm

hevyduty wrote:Hey guys finally got round to fixing the anchors on Fata Morgana theres a set of rap rings right of the tree !Hevy
Thanks, Hevy

I always enjoyed climbing Fata Morgana - it seems slightly overlooked.

Steve

NateDoggOG
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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by NateDoggOG » Mon Aug 05, 2013 2:23 pm

Last time I was on it, one of the bolts (I think the second one) on Jacobs Ladder was spinning in the rock. That was late last year though, so it very well could be fixed by now.

I was on Sanctuary at Rogues this past weekend though, and there are four or five fixed draws on it which are looking a bit dodgy. The dogbones are quite faded - I'm not sure how much the sun affects the integrity of the sling. Apparently one of the gates on a draw stuck open briefly after I clipped it as well.
I'm not sure if there were always fixed draws on it? If that's the case, then it would be ideal to have them replaced with the steel cable ones that won't be affected by the sun. Otherwise, maybe just removing the ones that are there and having climbers bring their own draws up it.
Any thoughts?

joewtc
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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by joewtc » Mon Aug 05, 2013 2:55 pm

I climbed Jacob's ladder during the mountain festival. The second bolt hanger was spinning. I tried to tighten it up with my fingers and it didn't work and I didn't have a wrench either. Joe

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Re: Rusty Bolt Replacement

Post by NateDoggOG » Mon Aug 05, 2013 3:10 pm

Yeah that's the one. It's the bolt that is loose in the rock, not the nut loose on the bolt.

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