Your shoe Rubber opinion wanted here!

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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Jonny5
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Your shoe Rubber opinion wanted here!

Post by Jonny5 » Wed Jul 24, 2013 6:21 am

Hey all I just got my 2nd ever pair of rock shoes. I chose the Anasazi Verde. My first pair bought at beginning of May now need a resole. I plan on dropping them off at Gold Star in the next couple of days. They have different shoe rubber: 5.10, C-4, XSV and ESV (VIBRAM).

So shoot me your opinions on which rubber is best for our wonderful granite around here. Thanks J5

dakine
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Re: Your shoe Rubber opinion wanted here!

Post by dakine » Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:26 am

It doesn't really matter, the rubber won't make any noticeable difference to climbing. It might make a slight difference in longevity as the C4 is supposed to wear slightly better than the XSV.

Personally I chuck my old shoes I find resoling for 70 bucks is nothing like buying a new pair. For indoor training I buy the cheapest ones that fit (Five Ten Rogue $ 92.00), for outside I have a performance pair.
DJ 1%

Jonny5
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Re: Your shoe Rubber opinion wanted here!

Post by Jonny5 » Wed Jul 24, 2013 5:37 pm

Yeah thats kind of what I figured. I was definetly in the "not the arrow its the indian" school of thought when I rode/taught snowboarding everyday. Just thought it was interesting to see if opinions were strong either way. Thanks and keep chiming in if you feel strongly. J5

crazymonkey
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Re: Your shoe Rubber opinion wanted here!

Post by crazymonkey » Wed Jul 24, 2013 6:05 pm

Before you drop your shoes off...

I've had resoles done at Gold Star (Scarpa Dominators and Sportiva Mythos) and Quick Cobbler (2 pairs of Scarpa Technos) and I have to say I much preferred Quick Cobbler. Both soles I had done at Gold Star peeled and separated within a few months, and the toe kinda stuck out further than the edge of the sole. Defeats the purpose of having an edge to stand on if the toe is contacting the rock first...
The resoles done at Quick Cobbler felt like a brand new pair of shoes, minus the breaking in/moulding to my foot period.

crazymonkey
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Re: Your shoe Rubber opinion wanted here!

Post by crazymonkey » Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:50 pm

Maybe they've had staff changes...I had my shoes done at Gold Star in 2008, and used Quick Cobbler in 2010 and 2011. I just thought it was weird that both pairs I had done at GS delaminated so quickly vs my shoes done at QC. Either way, it sure beats shelling out twice as much for new shoes and having to break them in.
I bet setting that pic up smelled awesome, bearbreeder :wink:

Jonny5
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Re: Your shoe Rubber opinion wanted here!

Post by Jonny5 » Thu Jul 25, 2013 3:17 am

well one for one for place to go online. Thanks peeps. For better or worse my first ever rock shoe. La Sportiva Tesstarossa is getting a resole. I'm going to stick with whatever rubber it came with. I also love the 5.10 rubber I ahve now on my 2nd shoes...


so going to Gold Star for first ever resole because
crazymonkey wrote: Both soles I had done at Gold Star peeled and separated within a few months....

dude I bought my Tesstarossa's like May 10th at latest so the origianl rubber only last 2.5monthsish...

crazymonkey
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Re: Your shoe Rubber opinion wanted here!

Post by crazymonkey » Thu Jul 25, 2013 8:04 pm

Post your results with GS! I'd give them another go if your rubber lasts and doesn't peel. I tend to rotate my shoes, using the fresh resole at the beginning of the outdoor season, then as gym shoes in the winter, sending in my old gym shoes for new rubber to refresh the cycle.

Jonny5
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Re: Your shoe Rubber opinion wanted here!

Post by Jonny5 » Thu Jul 25, 2013 10:24 pm

While speaking to some fellow climbers at Ronin's corner I was recommended a new place in town here called Marchello's. Its right on Cleveland ave. so I think they got me by just being local. Anyone have any bad or good experiences there?

staven
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Re: Your shoe Rubber opinion wanted here!

Post by staven » Sat Jul 27, 2013 9:54 pm

I got my Katanas re-soled at Marcello's a couple of months ago and they were great. My first route after the re-sole was One Scoop with Delicious Dimples, and I didn't notice any weird feel or break-in period at all, which I expected to have from previous re-sole experiences (Gold Star, etc). They felt like new shoes without the break-in period. A really good edge got put back on, no delaminating, I would definitely recommend them. It has definitely restored my faith in the re-sole option vs buying new. Not sure about a second time, but we'll see how long the rest of the shoes last. It took about 4 days or so and there were 3-4 other pairs in there getting re-soled at the time. They use 4mm 5.10 rubber only (can't remember if it was Stealth, C4 or Onyx - whatever it was, it sticks to the rock just fine). I think it was $60.

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