Boomstick Crack with beginner/ child

[tobyfk]

I am climbing regularly with my older son (13) this summer with the eventual aim of a full-length route on the Chief, probably something on the Apron into Butt-Face. Though any self-respecting 13 year old these days climbs 5.14, or at least has done a jumar-less NIAD, my son is squandering his best years on that european team sport with a round ball, and so is rather underdeveloped as a climber ... Anyway, my question: what's the best way to tackle Boomstick Crack with an small or nervous second? I have done it but don't remember much detail, except a lot of diagonal traversing and that you need big cams. Is there an intermediate stance possible? Have there been accidents with the route? An alternative is to keep 4th classing over to Memorial Crack instead, but I am not keen to add too many 5.9 or harder pitches to the day.

[J Mace]

I think you remember it correctly, tough little start to a wide crack that traverses. The traverse is easy, you will just have to bring some larger cams to protect the swing at the very beginning. Otherwise you can do one of the slab climbs to the right to the same place, maybe you can go right up Granville street, or whatever its called.

Have fun

[Tricouni]

Once you get off the ground on Boomstick Crack it's pretty easy. Just walk on top of the flake; he can lean into the rock if he feels insecure. Granville Street has the same start, but I think you'd find it more run-out for your second: the first pitch is a long traverse to the right and not much pro.

I've taken lots of beginners up Boomstick Crack and never had any problems. What was said above about splitting it up into 2 (or 3) leads is good advice.

[tobyfk]

Thanks everyone - sounds like I am worrying too much.

[Drew]

Once you pull over onto the flake it's pretty much no hands traversing
Pulling over onto the flake is easier the further right you start

[jonny2vests]

Leave him a piece with a sling long enough to French free the start. After that its a romp.

[mcfly]

or consider doing Granville Street instead. You will be able to see the second and talk him through the more difficult moves on pitch 1 and pitch 2 better if neccessary. Pitch 3 is barely 5th class. This also has the benefit of avoiding some scrambling immediately above the end of Boomstick which you may need to help your second with?

This still has the same start as Boomstick though.
+1 for what J2V said about the long sling