Sacrilege - Chekamus

[brockt]

Hey everyone, just wanted to express some concern regarding this route at chek which runs directly above the Circus wall. Anyone familiar with the area and this route in particular must know that this thing is an accident waiting to happen. I can't count the number of times I've had fist sized rocks and good sized branches land just feet away from me while climbing here, knocked down by people on top of the cliff as they head over to rap off. Not to mention the half dozen rescues I've seen as climbers miscalculate the rap and end up dangling in space, ropes thrown over the edge without as much as a heads up... the list goes on. My concern is that one day a rock is going to come down into the crowd directly below and kill someone. I had one of these rock fall encounters this weekend and nearly ripped the bolts off the thing myself in anger. Just wanted to see what other people thought. I personally don't want people climbing what is often their first multi pitch directly above my head.

Hope everyone is enjoying this weather and getting their fill of climbing! Cheers

Brock Tilling

[gnarnaphobe]

Sounds Sketchy...

I haven't climbed the route or spent much time in the area but I recall hearing thar there is also an inaccuracy in the guide as to how much rope is required to rappel, Which could have something to do with the rescues you speak of.

[original gorby]

The latest guidebook advises a 70m rope and lists the raps as 31m & 35m. I cannot speak to the accuracy of this as I have not measured them. It also warns climbers to be careful rapping due to the presence of people below. If don't want people climbing "their first multi pitch" directly above your head then don't climb below them.

[brockt]

Gorby, it's a sport climbing crag. There can be over 20 people below on a busy day. The route itself is totally out of place for the area. The problem is also that most people are unaware that there are people above them as the route starts around the corner and are out of sight during the entire climb. Are you familiar with the route/area yourself or are you just reading out of the guidebook?

[asc]

I see both sides of the coin here. I will go up there next week and flag and cut the walk off. Maybe that will ease some of the traffic coming down. I can also pull the rap anchors that were used to bolt the heifer and just leave the intended rap anchor 20m further south. There is a lot of moss but little or no rock on the proper rap line.

Then we just have to educate people...both at the circus and on the route. We could do this with signs. Bolt them to the route anchors? A sign in the circus area? Know anyone that does metal work of this sort?

Any other ideas?

[tsouth]

I've definitely been there when people are coming down and understand Brock's concern but I don't think cutting the bolts is necessary. A walk off would be a great way of dealing with it but may cause some debris to be knocked down elsewhere. Rapping the route does seem the easiest way to avoid all the hassles. Asc I may be able to help do some recon of a descent trail next week feel free to message me or post here.
Let me know,
Ty

[smallman]

My assessment of the situation is that if there is rock and forest of any type above your head the potential exists for rockfall and that YOU should protect your yourself accordingly. Chek is still outdoors, it is not a climbing gym. Wear a helmet.

[brockt]

I agree with you guys in that Chek has a total gym mentality. It has for the last 15+ years and the reality is that it's not going to change like it or not. People are not going to wear helmets, and they are going to continue to lounge around at the base of the wall. I think the best bet would be to eliminate that direct rap altogether. Loose rock and crowds= rock to the melon. I haven't looked at the walk off, but I'd be totally into helping you guys out if you need a hand. Shoot me a message and I'll give you contact info. Cheers

[asc]

Going to be there 9am tomorrow to start this trail. Don't think much work is needed. I only have two hours or so tomorrow but hope to get some hand lines in, underbrush cut and the trail flagged. If you are bored drop by...bring gloves, I’ll have tools.

The hike to the top of the route climbs a gully about 25 metres to right just before you get to the first climbs in the area. You'll see my pack there.

[tsouth]

Hey Asc,
Didn't see this in time to get out and give you a hand. How did you make out?
Cheers,
Ty