Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Everyone seems to lose their stuff and find other peoples stuff so lets put all those posts in here.
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Jeff Thomson
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Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by Jeff Thomson » Sun May 26, 2013 6:58 am

Hi,

I found a nice Rappel / Top rope set up at the Upper Malemute on Friday. If you can identify it I will be happy to get it back to you.

Cheers, Jeff Thomson

Kyle
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Re: Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by Kyle » Mon May 27, 2013 5:32 pm

I see you found my setup. Thanks for the honesty. And thanks for putting up a ton of amazing routes. If I could get it back that would be great. I'll have to tone down my forgetfulness. My cordolette is red and was tied off on a figure eight with two straight gates and two worn lockers. It was left on the top of Stephanies Tears. I was using it as a rap to the mid anchors to rappel to the base of Star wall as it is a much better way to get down there than the other way which takes longer and is dirtier anddrags the rope through a natural water runoff. Do you think it would be a good idea to have a set of rap chains appear at the top of Stephanies Tears for access? Also on another note, what is the grade on the righthand variation a short ways up Sorry John! Or is that supposed to be the proper way and the awkward traverse from the left with the two bolts side by side is the variation. Give me a shout if you get a moment. No rush with the gear or anything. Thanks again. I tried to PM you but this is my first time posting and it didn't work so I am replying to your post.

Jeff Thomson
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Re: Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by Jeff Thomson » Tue May 28, 2013 6:52 am

Hi Kyle,

Thanks for the kind words. So you definitely described the gear and so we just have to figure out how to get it to you. Do you live in Vancouver or ?
Regarding a rap station by Stephanie's Tears. I was thinking the same thing and so if you happen to have some chain, please go ahead and if you don't have any I can add them. I was also thinking of changing the rap station location off of View Ledge. What do you think?

Regarding Sorry John! and where it goes. So actually Sorry John! is the one that makes the move out right to the edge and then up and I thought that move was around 10+.

What happened was someone came and added a bolt after I had done Sorry John! and that is why there are two bolts so close together. I was thinking of removing it, but then realized that what they may have been thinking was that by adding that bolt you can now climb Neighbourhood Bully using only bolts all the way from the ground. I have no idea who added it and still may remove it or move it. What do you think? In my opinion it is confusing now what to do with that bolt there.

Cheers, Jeff

Kyle
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Re: Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by Kyle » Tue May 28, 2013 6:08 pm

Hey Jeff. I'm actually in the process of moving from Whistler to Squamish for this weekend so maybe next week we could meet up where ever works for you as I will be running around like mad all week juggling work and moving and cleaning and all that fun stuff. I'll be free weekday evenings or weekends. Maybe we could get a pitch in. Monday could be nice weather. As for the chains, I could do it but I am not sure what to use. Would any old oval quick links do and should the chains be a certain kind? The view ledge rap bolts are all right but chains would help the rope pull nicer especially if you're at the base of High Mountain Woody. So the moves on the righthand crux are the right ones. I thought so. When I did it last month I opted for the traverse in from above on the left which didn't feel right but the bolt before the crux on the right had my rope wrapped around the corner a little awkwardly and I had trouble reaching the hold so I found the other way more suitable at the time. I'll have to go back and give it another try. It might be a tall person move. Maybe a little like Slap and Tickle which I redpointed with some serious reaching the other day when I forgot my anchor. What a great route. Anyway, I feel that usually a little bit of a reachy struggle just adds more spice which can only add more to ones repitoire. By the way, nice clean up job at Craig X. That place is awesome and it looks great now. A few more variations to I see.

Jeff Thomson
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Re: Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by Jeff Thomson » Thu May 30, 2013 6:19 am

Hi Kyle,

There is definitely a pretty long reach to move right on "Sorry John!"

The weather looks good for next week so if you want lets figure out a day and time to get you your stuff back. I am thinking Wednesday right now. Would that work?

Cheers, Jeff

Kyle
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Re: Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by Kyle » Thu May 30, 2013 5:47 pm

Wednesday sounds good. Are you going to be climbing during the day? I will be working until 5 but can meet you where ever after that at say 6. If that works.

Jeff Thomson
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Re: Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by Jeff Thomson » Sat Jun 01, 2013 8:56 pm

Hi Kyle,

It looks more like Monday now that i may be up. Would that still work for you?

Kyle
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Re: Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by Kyle » Sat Jun 01, 2013 10:47 pm

Sure. I'm working til around 4:30 or 5:00. Do you want to meet up for 6:00? Where do you have in mind. I'm living in Squamish now and am excited to get out climbing alot.

Jeff Thomson
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Re: Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by Jeff Thomson » Mon Jun 03, 2013 5:55 am

Hi Kyle,

Sorry for the late reply! I'm not sure you'll get this on time now but I can do 6 today. How about at the Starbucks?

Cheers

Kyle
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Re: Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by Kyle » Mon Jun 03, 2013 6:43 am

Sure. Is that the one downtown?

Jeff Thomson
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Re: Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by Jeff Thomson » Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:32 am

Yes, sorry about that. I didn't even know there was more than one! The one by A and W and Whitespot.

See ya

saralatite24
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Re: Found Rappel / Top rope set up at Upper Malemute

Post by saralatite24 » Thu Feb 28, 2019 8:20 pm

Jeff Thomson wrote:
Tue May 28, 2013 6:52 am
Hi Kyle,

Thanks for the kind words. So you definitely described the gear and so we just have to figure out how to get it to you. Do you live in Vancouver or ?
Regarding a rap station by Stephanie's Tears. I was thinking the same thing and so if you happen to have some chain, please go ahead and if you don't have any I can add them shuttle paris. I was also thinking of changing the rap station location off of View Ledge. What do you think?

Regarding Sorry John! and where it goes. So actually Sorry John! is the one that makes the move out right to the edge and then up and I thought that move was around 10+.

What happened was someone came and added a bolt after I had done Sorry John! and that is why there are two bolts so close together. I was thinking of removing it, but then realized that what they may have been thinking was that by adding that bolt you can now climb Neighbourhood Bully using only bolts all the way from the ground. I have no idea who added it and still may remove it or move it. What do you think? In my opinion it is confusing now what to do with that bolt there.

Cheers, Jeff
I think I'm going to send you some songs that I composed. It is far from pro, but who does not try anything has nothing.

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