The Return of the Babysitter Route?

[PStreet]

Last summer, thoughtfully arranged and well set up fixed ropes presented the opportunity for time-starved climbers the opportunity to Free climb/rope solo the entire length of the amazing route "Polaris". While I believe the ropes may have been set-up there to help clean up this relatively new route, it is now completely clean and in great shape.

While the route was still enjoyable and climbable for us less time-restricted folks using traditional means, I am hoping that they will be removed this spring in order to return this route to its more aesthetic rope-free state - even if they did allow me to chicken out of the 5.12 crux pitch.

While I see the purpose of these fixed ropes while route building is in process (Parallel Passages upper pitches are still getting from work from P. Cordy, but these will also hopefully go soon), they do affect the routes ambience and sense of adventure if left for longer than it takes to build the route.

Rumour has it that Alaskan Highway is being considered for fixed ropes.

[tobyfk]

A friend was explaining that this was a new trend in Yosemite: to equip some classics with fixed lines on a long-term basis to allow fast mini-traxion protected ascents.

Personally I think it's a terrible idea both for aesthetic reasons and also from a safety perspective ... maybe I am too cautious but I can think of a long list of ways in which a fixed line setup could be compromised.

[jonny2vests]

Here here, down with fixed ropes. (Can you wait till I've had a play on it though

[scrubber]

We never got around to removing those lines last fall when the bad weather set in, but they're slated for imminent removal. I would not reccomend using them after spending the winter on the wall.

I agree that the estetics of the route and wall are severely reduced by the prescence of the lines, especially for someone showing up to climb it in the normal way. On the other hand, by having one route per year well set up for a quick soloist burn after work was sure nice. (Polaris last year, and Warriors of the Wasteland the year before).

It would be unfortunate to see a whole bunch of routes set up this way, or to see lines on anything that actually got lots of regular traffic. Part of the motivation with both of those routed was to get them clean and demystify them to members of the local community who might be just on the edge of having a go at them ground-up.

I apologise for leaving the lines up all winter. It was never our intention. It does illustrate how easy it is for equipment like that to age quickly and still be thought of as legitimate safety gear by the community at large.

Kris Wild

[jonny2vests]

It does illustrate how easy it is for equipment like that to age quickly and still be thought of as legitimate safety gear by the community at large.

Kris Wild

When you say theyve aged quickly, have you inspected them then? I'm not sure what's been illustrated, a year is nothing really for a fixed line.

I'm not saying I want them left up.

[scrubber]

I have not inspected them this spring, but I have experience with leaving ropes on various cleaning projects over the winter. Not only are they subject to UV degridation, but also, wind induced abrading on edges, and rock and ice fall damage.

I was implying that some newew or less informed climbers have the tendancy to treat almost any fixed gear, be it a piton, bolt, rap anchor, or fixed line, as bomber and unquestionable.

I will try to remove the lines when I am back in town between April 9 and 17. If anyone would like to help, and do some fairly exciting rappels off the top of the northwalls, another set of hands would be appreciated.

Kris

[jonny2vests]

Hard to say for sure right now, but I'd be happy to help if work allows.

[JAR]

Hi Kris, I should have a day off somewhere in there. I'd like to help demob the gear, I'll contact you again when I eat my schedule for that block.

Allen

[scrubber]

Thank you very much for the offers gents. Fire me off a PM with your phone # or email and I'll be in direct contact when I figure out what day I'm going up.

Kris

[PStreet]

Thanks for the response Kris. Most of all thank you for putting up such a fantastic route. I am pleased that you plan to remove the ropes and would offer to help if I had the time. If your time frame changes please post it as I may be available for a later date.

Secondly I was really interested to see if the prospect of ropes on Alaskan highway would prompt any interesting debate, but so far no such luck. Personally I have no strong feelings one way or the other. Let me know if this plan comes to fruition.

Happy climbing (and scrubbing...)

[scrubber]

Most of the ropes came off of Polaris yesterday. Thanks to those of you who offered to help. The opportunity to get up there presented itself quite suddenly, and I ran up with a friend yesterday afternoon to get the job done.

There are still ropes on the first three pitches. They are in position so that I can jug back up and remove the stump from the bottom of the offwidth pitch. It has become sufficiently rotten that it's removal is necessary. I was not able to get it out yesterday without any tools, so I'll be heading back up to pop it out, and get the remaining ropes down hopefully this week.

I have no idea if any other routes are slated to be similarly equipped this summer. If you have ideas for something that would work well, post it up.

Kris

[slhughes]

heh Kris. mushy peas is a good contender for fixed lines. it's relatively easy access from the ledge coming in from the sheriffs badge. without ascents, i fear this good route will be lost to squamish growth. this route, linked into unbearable on the prow wall provides a good day on the rocks. not that i'm donating my time, i'm too busy meditating on existence and the price of bread in canada. good luck though. stewart