Grades in Squamish

[climbonshaun]

Hi everyone,

I'm heading out to Squamish for some climbing this summer and was wondering about some of the grades. I'm from Thunder Bay, so we have a lot of the same rock (slabby granite) just less of it.. but I've heard a few different things from people who've climbed in Northern Ontario and out West.. most being that the the boulders in Squamish are pretty stiff compared to boulders here, easier grades (5.8-5.10d) are a little bit softer in Squamish, but the harder grades are stiff.

I'm generally a 5.10-5.11 climber (depending on what type of route) in Thunder Bay, just wondering what I should expect when I get out west, whether I should be looking for routes a little bit easier or a bit harder. Anyone who's climbed in Ontario and Squamish, any advice would be great!

Also, anyone who can suggest some "must climb" sport climbs around the 5.8-5.11 grade would be of great help!

Thanks, Shaun

[natsdad]

Hi Shaun:

Grades are always subject to debate, and I find that the era in which a climb was established and the person who did the FA, have more bearing on how "accurate" the grade is. I've never climbed where you live, but I'm guessing you don't have multi-pitch climbs. So, my advice to you would be plan on climbing as many multi-pitch climbs as you can while visiting Squamish. Start on easier grades and work your way up. Beware that older climbs may be at an "easy" grade for you, but will likely have sparse protection. The other thing is to plan around is busy times. Classic routes will be busy on weekends and once people are awake (mid-week in the summer). If you want to get on one of the many classics in Squamish, try climbing it mid-week, and/or very early or very late in the day (long daylight in the summer). There are too many "must-do" climbs...get a guidebook and it will be obvious.

Have fun,
Steve

ps: I don't know much about bouldering...

[scrubber]

We do have some pretty good sport climbing here, but coming here to clip bolts is like going to Vegas so you can check out their churches. It's not really what the area is about. Learn how to place gear and your list of must-do route will expand by 20 times.

See you out there!

Kris

[climbonshaun]

Thanks a lot for the replies!

Yeah, I was hoping to experience as much of the multipitch as I can, because a "multipitch climb" in Thunder Bay is 2 or 3 pitches.. I think the highest walls we have here are about 100m, so while I would love to get into climbing something like The Chief, I have little to no experience climbing that kind of thing. I'm also not that great of a crack climber, so I feel like even a 5.9 crack would kick my a$%

I was thinking of coming as early as mid June or early July and staying at least a month from then. Is this a good time? I'm not so much worried about cold weather, I climb in single digit weather out here, but I've heard the rumours of the constant rain out West, is it going to be too wet to get on climbs most of the time? If so, maybe I'll plan to go later in July/August.

If you could suggest a slimmed down "essentials" style rack for Squamish, what would be essential gear? Right now I have static gear nuts & hexes both from 2-8 (one of each size), haven't spend the money on cams yet, but I'd definitely get some when I get out there.

Sorry for all the questions, I'm starting to get a little nervous that I'm hastily going into this.
I'm pretty excited to do some boulders out there as well.

Thanks for all the help,
Shaun

[smallman]

Squamish is quite passive pro friendly. Most cracks have lots of tapering constrictions for so you can climb a lot of stuff if you are good at placing nuts and hexes. My rack consists of a double rack of DMM wallnuts and a single rack of BD camalots from 0.4 to 3" (grey to blue) and blue, yellow and orange Metolius cams. A second Green and red camalot is super useful. I have large hexes to complement my cams from 1" up when necessary. I have made it a challenge to myself climb many of the classics here only on passive gear and found it is pretty easy for the most part.

As others have said, the trad is where it is at in Squamish. For sport climbing go to either Canmore, Lake Louise or Skaha - much better quality sport.

Also June can be a hit or miss month in Squamish. It often rains a lot then. July, August, September are usually the best time to come.

[marc_leclerc]

Its mainly about who put it up. If Hamish did the FA its F%$#$&^ hard.

[smallman]

John Howe, Ward Robinson, and Peter Croft routes also tend to be very stout for grade also.