Just Can't Do It needs some glue
Just Can't Do It needs some glue
One of the few good holds on the route between the 3rd and 4th bolt is about to blow. This hold could easily be glued if that type of thing is acceptable around here.
I would try but would probably make a big mess.
Anyone?
I would try but would probably make a big mess.
Anyone?
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
I thought Just Can’t Do It has already been "enhanced"
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
Glue wouldnt be an "enhancement", it would be a "keep the route from becoming 3 grades harder".
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
I sure hope it's not acceptable around here.Amuerte wrote:This hold could easily be glued if that type of thing is acceptable around here.
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
There is a route across the highway at the Sport Temple called Just Glue It and another called Glueteous Maximus. Why do you suppose they are called that?MorganM wrote:I sure hope it's not acceptable around here.Amuerte wrote:This hold could easily be glued if that type of thing is acceptable around here.
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
the forgotten wall has glued holds on several routes
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
A reinforced hold is a far cry from chipping or gluing on something that was never there before. It's certainly not rampant in our area, but not unheard of either. A well done job can be close to impossible for the average climber to notice. A poor job can be a horrible mess and eyesore.
K
K
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
Don’t forget Sanctuary at Rogue’s...
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
I'm going to second this. The hold is unfortunately best at the top, and if I was 20lbs heavier it'd be off already. Chances are good if it doesn't get glue behind it this season, a freeze and thaw this winter could mean the end of JCDI as a 13a.
I'd be happy to get it done, glue suggestions?
I'd be happy to get it done, glue suggestions?
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
Use the stuff that is used for glue-in bolts. Hilti 2-part masonary epoxy is one option. You can probably find good info on the product on the Petzl or Fixe website. Here's one that doesn't require you to buy an expensive caulking gun. You'd have to be much more careful not to make a mess though....
http://www.fixehardware.com/glue_sikadur_adhesive.htm
http://www.fixehardware.com/glue_sikadur_adhesive.htm
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
Just Glue It
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
Was looking at this route today (from the ground only). Has it been glued?
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Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
Was looking at the route a couple of weekends ago and I'm not quite sure which hold you mean. The only hold I THINK could be the one you are talking about is a right hand side pull off to the right and not even used by many people. I have always used a hold further to the left and closer to the next hold. I don't think the climbablity of the route would be changed if the hold I THINK you mean came off.
Andrew Itkonen
Andrew Itkonen
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
This sidepull now has a chalk "X" on it, presumably to discourage people from using it. But, I agree with Andrew: the hold isn't critical to the route. Actually if it does break it might leave a better hold ...Andrew Itkonen wrote:Was looking at the route a couple of weekends ago and I'm not quite sure which hold you mean. The only hold I THINK could be the one you are talking about is a right hand side pull off to the right and not even used by many people.
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