Exasperator a bit dirty...

[scrubber]

Sooo... Exasperator is a bit gritty right now....

A visiting climber from Switzerland and I were climbing Exasperator yesterday morning, and as I leaned out on that block just before the first belay I heard a "clunk". Eeeeeeekkkk! That certainly woke me up. Extreme pucker factor. On the way down, my partner went first to clear all of our stuff from the base and pull the ropes off to the side. Then I set myself up to pull up and out on the bottom of the block and very little wiggling and no tools of persuasion whatsoever, it slid out.

I would guess this thing probably weighed in the neighborhood of 400 pounds. It slid down the line of the crack and impacted right where my belayer had been standing. It then bounced off to the left, coming to rest as a perfect little picnic table, or shoe tying bench. The first pitch anchor is now about a meter above your reach when standing on the "new ledge"

Moral? Loose blocks can be anywhere. Don't get complacent just because it's a popular route. This could have been a double fatality if it had come out a little bit easier while I was climbing past it.

K

[BlahMatt]

Wow! I climbed it earlier this week and didn't notice anything loose. I sort of gunned through it very quickly so maybe that's why but, yikes! Glad everything worked out and you were able to clean it safely.

[scrubber]

Maybe we could glue it back in? Just to preserve the original feel of the route, ya know. Oh wait, we would have to stick all the little trees back in too. What a dilemma.

I'll add some pics from my phone later.

[gnarnaphobe]

Thanks for your public service, and announcement Kris. You're efforts to ensure public safety are extremely respectable.

P.s. your hero loops you won are itchin to tie off some pins

[scrubber]

Luke, I've got more hero loops than I'll ever use. I just like playing "ID the route in that photo". So you can pass on that lovely prize to the next lucky winner.

As promised, crappy pics from my phone!





K

[Lurch]

Wow. Me and Kieran and Bruce Mac were the last ones on that climb on Wednesday night. Bruce took it down in the dark. Funny thing about that block I allways pulled sideways on it, never out, mostly just because of the position that I am in at the time... so scary!

I was the only one with a helmet on but it wouldn't have helped me..

[relic]

Holy crap Kris! I am very happy that you and your partner are ok. I never would have thought that thing would pull out. Sure looks different now, man o' man.

Sooooooo, should the anchors be moved now?

[BlahMatt]

Reclimbed it yesterday (after reading this post). Happily used the block to sit on for putting on my shoes .

Route still climbs pretty much the same with a slightly easier finish to the first "pitch". Anchor is in a fine spot as you pretty much just mantle up onto the ledge the block was sitting on and can reach the chains no problem. Really glad nobody got hurt by it.

Regarding glueing it back. A) No need the route is still great and B) good luck getting it up there and in place .

Thanks again for taking care of it!

[Lurch]

Thanks again Kris for properly dealing with this lurking monster.

[scrubber]

You can see the decomposing cedar root that was keeping the block from tipping out.

Good to hear that the anchor still feels like it's in a good spot. While up there we were contemplating moving, (or adding) the top anchor to the very top of that hand crack, just before it meets Peasant's Route. It would still be a sub-30m rap back to the top of the first pitch, and you'd get almost 10m more climbing. Thoughts?

K

[jstod]

My vote would be "no" only because I seem to remember being able to rap from the current top anchors in one go with a 70m if you veer right towards a slightly elevated spot on the path… A nice option when someone has started on the first pitch before you're off the route.

Does that sound right? Anyone else remember rapping in one go with a 70?

Just my two cents. If you moved them it wouldn't be too big a deal either though.

Julian

[MarkR]

Good to hear that the anchor still feels like it's in a good spot. While up there we were contemplating moving, (or adding) the top anchor to the very top of that hand crack, just before it meets Peasant's Route. It would still be a sub-30m rap back to the top of the first pitch, and you'd get almost 10m more climbing. Thoughts?

K

I was wondering a few weeks ago why the second pitch ended when the crack continues to that tree. I don't know about rapping with a 70, that sounds a bit far and I don't think that's a good enough reason not to extend the route. I vote do it, it seems really logical extension.

[BlahMatt]

I really don't think you can rap to the ground where it is with a 70. I rap to the ground with an 80 and just make it to the ground.

I would vote 'no' for moving the anchors as the route past that point isn't very exciting anyway . And I like that the anchors are directly above the other set. Plus, what's the point? It's a great route, no need for more holes in the rock there.

[jstod]

I really don't think you can rap to the ground where it is with a 70. I rap to the ground with an 80 and just make it to the ground.

I'm probably on crack… thought you could stretch it with a 70 to the right. If not, then I don't really have an opinion on the issue (not that I had a strong opinion to begin with)!

Julian

[scrubber]

I would vote 'no' for moving the anchors as the route past that point isn't very exciting anyway . And I like that the anchors are directly above the other set. Plus, what's the point? It's a great route, no need for more holes in the rock there.

True, it wouldn't be terribly challenging compared to what you've already gone through. Probably only 5.7 , but pleasant, splitter hands. The present anchor is actually several meters climbers right of plumb above the first pitch anchor. An alternate anchor at the route intersection above would be almost directly above the first pitch anchor. Just sayin...

K