Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

[TravisMcC]

Does anyone have any conditions updates for 2012?

[Dru]

Does anyone have any conditions updates for 2012?

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... ost1065769

Accessing the NE butt has been both difficult and hazardous so far this year.

[TravisMcC]

Looks like if you do the entire NE buttress direct, you avoid the pocket glacier completely?

[Dru]

You don't have to cross it, sure, but it's above you on the approach to the start of the Buttress Direct too. Stay right in the lower basin and then make a beeline for the start of the route.

[jstod]

An update for those looking at getting on the NE Buttress.

Bypass glacier is still in place and is vomiting ice at regular intervals across the slabs below. Was most active just after 7am or so, when the sun fully hits it. A couple real biggies mid-morning and I wondered if we'd get to see the whole thing rip.

We took the crossover trail (very well marked) almost into the alpine and traversed right round the basin and below North Slesse Glacier to gain the direct start, which is sheltered from both glaciers.

North Slesse Glacier is active as well but there's only a short snow patch to cross right now and you can limit your exposure to about 1.5 minutes if you move quickly. Of course, an early start is essential.

Cheers,

Julian

[nerdalert]

September 3rd/4th 2012 the Bypass Glacier was almost completely gone, some low angle snow walking (crampons) to wet slabs, to the ramp. There are a few minor chunks of ice left at the back of the slab. (see photo) There is one small snow patch near the big bivy ledge on route, otherwise dry. On the Crossover decent we encountered one steep hard snow patch (15m, 50deg?) where one of us used an axe and the other crampons. The road has many water bars that probably require some high clearance. Enjoy!

[TravisMcC]

We climbed Slesse Mountain via the NE Buttress on September 14th. The pocket glacier is still there (see below). It took us about 20 seconds to sprint across the slab, while under the pocket glacier, to safety.

It looked much smaller from below!

We heard falling pieces about every 30 minutes throughout the day, but all were from other pocket glaciers in the area and not this particular one.

Cross at your own risk.

http://i.imgur.com/JsaPq.jpg