Teetering on the Brink of Madness

[scrubber]

Not that there's ever been a lineup on this route... but I thought I'd let y'all know that I rebolted it today. The majority of the station bolts had been done in the past, but only two of the protection bolts on the entire route were 3/8". I replaced all the 1/4" ones, and a few non-stainless 3/8" at stations.

For the few of you who are twisted enough to like this sort of thing (like me), this is one of the best slab routes in Squamish. The position on the arete adds an element of exposure not found on any other hard friction route. That's the "Teetering on the Brink" part. The route also holds one of the best (if not the best) pitches of straight in crack climbing on the Apron. From where you leave Snake, you can only see up to the large cedar growing in the crack. Beyond that is another 40m of hands to fingers to tips, finishing with about 10m of 5.10+ slab to the anchor. Worthy in it's own rite, as a diversion while going up Snake.

I'll add some pictures of my bolt pullin' adventures later. The only casuality of the day was one broken carabiner on my funkness device. That's some serious pulling power.

Kris

[J Mace]

Awesome Awesome!!!!!

This has been on my tick list for some time now, hows the route itself, clean?

Thanks man!!!!!!

[jstod]

Awesome Awesome!!!!!

This has been on my tick list for some time now

Same same! Thanks!

[thebigchin]

I tried climbing it 15 or 16 years ago. My partner said she'd swap leads but chickened out as soon as we branched off of Snake. I fell just before the anchors at the top of that incredible crack/slab pitch. When I hit the slab one butt cheek hit and grabbed and my momentum nearly tore me in half . I had a sore a$$hole for 2 days after that.

I had a similar injury falling off of a bike a few years later.

[dakine]

I had a sore a$$hole for 2 days after that.

Number 1 reason friends don't let friends climb slab.

It did make me clench as i chuckled

[scrubber]

Oooo, nasty injury. Kind of a drawn and quartered by slab sort of thing. The route is really clean with the exception of the 10m from Snake to the cedar tree. I brushed the holds in that section today so it's totally fine, just not sparkling. The slab portion seems to stay much less scruffy than many of the other friction routes. I think that's because most water drains left or right away from the arete, so it dries really fast.

Even though it shares most of the crux pitch with Unfinished Symphony, I find the Teetering pitch easier. On Unfinished, the crux for me is manteling around the arete onto the slab where they meet. On Teetering, you don't have to do the move.

For those who have been psychin' up for it, I would recommend doing White Lightening, Dancing in the Light, and Dream Symphony as precursors. They'll get you ready for the runouts on easier terrain that you'll be facing. The cruxes are all well protected on this route. You will never be more than a meter above your last bolt pulling a 5.11 move. You may, however be 10 metres above your last bolt doing sustained 5.9 friction.

This climb is a small step up from the ones I listed above in seriousness, if not technical difficulty. It's a bit easier than Dream On, but similar in commitment level.

K

[scrubber]

Okay here's the pictures.


The incredible crack. The arete is visible above.


A typical weird station. One 1/4" stainless, one 3/8" non stainless, one 3/8" stainless.

The 1/4" one would be pulled and drilled out to 3/8, and the rusty 3/8" would be chopped, leaving each station with 2 shiny 3/8" stainless bolts.


Some of the original bolts were there.


And some of them had been replaced sometime in the past with 1/4" stainless bolts (1.25" long! eeek!) I'm pointing to what is probably the original 1/4" hole


you start with a few good taps on the head of the bolt to loosen it up, then drive the tuning fork behind to get it started.


Then it's time to get funky. The button heads usually come out easily. The sleeve expansion bolts break about half the time.


The result.


Casualty of war. Gate flutter while funkin' = broken bieners


If there is a chip of the old bolt in the 1/4" hole you're drilling out to 3/8", the carbide tip of your drill bit will shatter. This will inevitably be your newest, sharpest bit...


This is the old iron that came down today. I dropped one hanger along the way, So that makes 19 old ones removed. Several were at stations that had already been updated, so the actual replacement number was 14.

Hope you enjoyed the ride!

K

[jipstyle]

Awesome. Thank you!

[Optimally-Primed]

Great work, Kris!
Did you get funds from the CASBC anchor replacement fund?
http://www.access-society.ca/retrobolt

[NateDoggOG]

I climbed White Lightning not too long ago and really enjoyed it. I'm really looking forward to getting on those other routes you mentioned as well as this one. Looks great! Thanks for your time that you put into it.

[scrubber]

Did you get funds from the CASBC anchor replacement fund?

No I didn't bother. I'm not currently a member (but should be) and you need to get approval before taking on a project. I may see if there is any funds left in Valhalla's old manky bolt fund. Or just get reimbursed in hangers and bolts. I'd love to put on those Fixe chain anchors that MEC sells.

K

[Peter]

Kris, please email me at pwinter@access-society.ca. I'm sure we can help you out.

Peter
CASBC

[squamish climber]

Wow Kris thanks for the great effort inspirational effort. the splitter crack looks super fun.

And thanks Peter for offering to help fund the bolt replacement. Two thumbs up on that.

[relic]

Kris, did you take a gaze across to the left at the Grim Reaper? It traverses left from that splitter crack.

[BlahMatt]

traverses from that splitter crack.

Those are just bad words...