Sullys projects

[dunndan]

What up with the projects up there? Are they still being worked on? are they open? I know one is still sans bolts, I'll put in the time if the originator can't be bothered. Not going to get on them without a go ahead... just wondering if i missed an/some update on them

Dan

[sandBag]

Dan

You are right, i have been busy else where but intend to circle back and wrap up the few lines left. will be heading up in a couple weeks to finish the lines. If your interested in helping, I sent you a message with my phone number.

[jipstyle]

Any update here? I'd love to know whether those projects on the topo have bee sent and, if so, what they're rated. There are some really fun lines at Sully's ... it was my favourite crag this summer.

I know that there is at least one red tag remaining .. have the others been sent / named?

[Uncle Rico]

September 22, 2011

Here's the scoop on those Sully's projects, as well as the north wall since there's a couple new lines not on the topo.. Shaun said it was OK for me to post his notes here:

North Wall
Left to Right

1. Left Overs 5.8 F.A
2. Your Other Left 5.9/10a F.A
3. Lefty 5.10a
4. A Bunch of BS 5.9
5. The Rookie 5.9
6. Beginners Luck 5.7 F.A
7. Open Project - needs first bolt and some TLC

As for the 2 hard routes right of Gardener

1. A DJ Saved My Life, this is an open project, needs a bolt at the
top
2. Trancemission, a possible route up the right side of the blank
wall, I have done all the moves, needs bolts and would share the
same anchors as DJ, another Open Project or could just be left out
all together

There is another project all the far right end of the crag, no name
but it climbs the blunt arrete to the right of In The Bubble. It
currently has anchors and top 3 bolts with no hangers, again this an
open project.

So there you go!

[jipstyle]

Thanks very much!

[natsdad]

Hi Folks,

We climbed Sully's briefly yesterday, Sunday, May 27. Only had time for a few climbs. Many of the climbs on the North Wall were still too wet to climb. We climbed 3M to second anchor, Little Lulu and Beginner's Luck (I think). All were worthy climbs. I love the rough texture of the rock there. There is one more climb to the right of Beginner's Luck, that goes up low angled but very mossy and wet rock...this might be "7. Open Project - needs first bolt and some TLC".

This was my first time climbing at Sully's. We found that Little Lulu was a bit stiff and challenging to lead for its' stated grade. I felt much more comfortable leading 3M (to its' second anchor) than I did on Little Lulu. Just a little feedback for the first ascentionist.

Thanks for the efforts with this crag,
Steve

[jipstyle]

Interesting.

We found that the grades were a bit soft on 3M and Little Lulu ... we figured them at 5.8 and easy 5.9, respectively ... but the grades will even out with some consensus, I figure.

We also really enjoy Speed Dial #8 (5.11a) and Shake Your Lettuce (5.10d) .. but I think the grades should be .10+ for both.

It really is a nice place to climb on a hot day but it takes a long time to dry due to the shade. The approach also makes a great warm-up!

[jipstyle]

I agree with bb's summary.

The easiest way for me to find the trail is to keep my eyes up as I'm ascending ... when I see the yellow sign for the trail to Lynn Peak in the distance, I know that I'm close to the trail to the crag.

If you get to the yellow sign, you've gone too far.

[natsdad]

Hi Folks,

One other thing: there is a slightly loose small block on 3M, fairly close to the ground, that could use a **careful** prying off (it's on the fall line where belayer would stand or rope would hang), and one or two hangers spun higher up on the route.

cheers,
Steve

[Khoi]

I find the grades at Sully's Hangout to be on the softer side, even softer than Squamish grades, which are also soft.

Grades aside, I really like Sully's Hangout. It's a great area to have and so very close to Vancouver to boot. I find it far more beginner friendly (or should I say gym-to-real-rock friendly?) than The Smoke Bluffs.

[dakine]

I'd be curious to know which routes you think are soft Khoi and did you think they were soft to onsite?

[Khoi]

I'd be curious to know which routes you think are soft Khoi and did you think they were soft to onsite?

To date, I have done every route there that is 5.11b and easier. I found everything I did there to be of varying degrees of softness for the grade.

And, yes, I did think they were soft to onsight, which was GREAT for the ego!

I haven't climbed there since summer 2010. I was sidelined for most of 2011 due to injury. I have not yet even got on any of the climbs that were originally designated as Projects, so I can't give an opinion on their grading.

[sandBag]

Routes should not be graded on their onsite but on the hardest move and then how sustained it is. Most of the routes at Sully's are graded on the hardest move since most are not sustained. With respect to any hard move, it will always feel different each of us. If a route is more then a letter grade off it should be changed, otherwise we will all be debating grades forever.

Those are the grades established when the routes went up. If it feels soft for you, then be happy because im sure you will cursing some route which is hard for the grade. It all washes out in the end.

There will be a guide book out next spring (http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Va ... mbing.html for areas south of murin including vancouver. Any route that is at more then a letter grade off let me know.

cheers,
shaun

[J Mace]

That guide covers areas that are going to get closed down because of it, hell your likely to get shot if you try to go to the Senior centre.

[jipstyle]

That guide covers areas that are going to get closed down because of it, hell your likely to get shot if you try to go to the Senior centre.

I'm a bit worried about that as well.

Sandbag: The grades that I offer for these routes are based on the hardest move I found on them ... this is how I've graded routes for the last decade and a half. These are the routes I've climbed most often and so I'm comfortable offering my opinion re: the grades of these pitches.

Little Lulu: 5.8
3M: 5.7 to the first set of chains, easy 5.9 to the second.
Speed dial #8: 5.10 b/c
Shake your lettuce: 5.10c/d

Other than Shake your lettuce, you'll notice that these are all significant changes in the grades.

That is just my opinion, of course.