Cypress Falls Bouldering Topo?

[rockandsnowjunkie]

Just wondering whether anyone had a topo of the bouldering routes for Cypress Falls area. I've climbed the various crags, which are quite nice, but wanted to get out bouldering and a guide would be extremely helpful

Thanks.

[Uncle Rico]

There is a Godman Creek bouldering (lower hairpin corner on the Cypress Bowl Road access) topo available as free download PDF at Marc Bourdon's Quickdraw Books website:

http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Fr ... ouver).pdf

Otherwise, a topo for bouldering in Cypress Falls Park can be found in Bourdon's first edition of Squamish Bouldering.

I am currently researching and drafting the first Vancouver Rock Climbing guidebook and Cypress Falls will be documented in completion. We hope to have this new guidebook available in the Spring 2013. If you add any new problems to Cypress Falls Park please let me know ASAP. Thanks.

Rich Wheater
richwheater@shaw.ca

[Dru]

In the active quarry above the Godman Creek boulders, I climbed the blasted corner at the left of the main wall back in the early 90s (before they dumped all the blasted boulders in it). seem to recall it goes around 10-. The top anchor involves medium sized blue Tricams in drilled shot holes.

[hafilax]

I was at Cypress Falls on the weekend. If you go, bring a big brush. It's super mossy right now.

[jipstyle]

You are writing the new guidebook with the info on Sully's?

I'm curious ... last I heard, the 'official' stance on climbing there was this:

There will be no organized trail building relating to rock climbing, or posting of any information regarding or promoting the climbing area within the LSCR.

Have you ensured that publishing info about this crag doesn't contravene these rules? I imagine that you have, but I just want to make sure that I'll be able to keep climbing in my backyard next year.

[rockandsnowjunkie]

Correct me if wrong, but there's a substantial amount of bouldering right out of the Cypress Falls Park, along the east side of the Cypress Creek in the second gen forest?!

I knew little but stories about Goldman Creek. Anyone have any topo for that area?

Thanks.

Look forward to the new guidebook!!!

[psi4ce]

There exists a reasonably comprehensive hand-drawn topo for Cypress Falls Bouldering. I think it was even drawn by Rolf, who did most of the climbing development at Cypress Falls, some number of years ago now.

It used to be available for download online. This no longer seems to be the case.

I'm pretty sure I have an old copy of this topo in my collection at home. If I scan it, will Squamish Climbing post it?

[squamish climber]

psi4ce

Sure, that would be great. If anybody wants to send me topos to post they are more than welcome.

Dave

[psi4ce]

PM'd the webmaster with a PDF of the old Cypress Falls Bouldering topo. Let me know if problems getting the file.

But anyway, with my compliments... enjoy!

Get out there and climb.

You know what the problem with North Shore climbing is?

Moss!

Areas get developed, and then they don't get climbed, and the next thing you know... the moss has reclaimed the rock.

Excellent case in point is The Senior Centre. Good climbing! Or at least, there used to be, before the moss reclaimed the rock. Of course that area has access problems in addition...

Hopefully Cypress Falls won't suffer from the same fate. It's great for after-work bouldering if you don't have time to drive all the way to Squamish...

[squamish climber]

Thanks to psi4ce (does that stand for anything btw) for sending squamishclimbing.com the topo.

You can find it here under the Crag and Area info on the forum in the Vancouver to Hope thread.

I've wondered up there a few times without a topo and saw some of the problems. They look great and in a nice forest. Go check them out.

If you go take some photos and post them here. It would be cool to see some more of these boulders.

[Uncle Rico]

You are writing the new guidebook with the info on Sully's?

I'm curious ... last I heard, the 'official' stance on climbing there was this:

There will be no organized trail building relating to rock climbing, or posting of any information regarding or promoting the climbing area within the LSCR.

Have you ensured that publishing info about this crag doesn't contravene these rules? I imagine that you have, but I just want to make sure that I'll be able to keep climbing in my backyard next year.

Sully's access will be researched thoroughly. It's one major reason for doing this guidebook. Obviously it's not in anyone's interest to get an area closed down. Quite the contrary. - RW

[Uncle Rico]

I'm not positive why the Cypress Falls bouldering topo is no longer available for download up at Quickdraw's web site but I suspect it's because this area is included in Bourdon's first edition of Squamish Bouldering (2003). The other Vancouver area topos posted there are currently not in any guidebook, although Copper Cove is in McLane's 1999 Squamsih guide..

Speaking of moss, many of the Cypress Falls boulders have been retro-scrubbed as of this past week and are quite enjoyable once again. Go check out the Peabody zone. Again, if folks knew where they could go climb locally the moss might stay away a little longer.

Rich Wheater
richwheater@shaw.ca

[jipstyle]

Sully's access will be researched thoroughly. It's one major reason for doing this guidebook. Obviously it's not in anyone's interest to get an area closed down. Quite the contrary. - RW

Awesome .. thanks! That's all I needed to know.

[rolfr]

There is another bouldering area in Cypress just past the bridge above the falls, don't cross the bridge, stay on the same side.

There are about 20+ problems on three crags, from V1 to V4/5. A few classic problems at a harder grade are still there for the picking. Most of the problems were unearther 2 years back and I never got around to posting them. I will probably go in this week and spruce them up and post here.

Sadly the biggest contributor to environmental damage in Cypress are the residences backing onto the park, who use the park as their dumping ground, and the piles of dog shite that the humans are to lazy to pick up.

Rolf

[Uncle Rico]

For anyone wondering about current conditions at Cypress Falls:

Many of the boulders have been recently retro-scrubbed...

Also, the Cypress Creek crags Knuckle Head, Tombstone Tower, and Cougar, are currently in their best condition for climbing. This long spell of warm, dry weather combined with the last of the snow melt from the alpine has finally lowered the creek's water levels to a point where these crags are in their ideal state. The Knuckle Head cliff in particular is clean, dry, and very climbable right now. There is also a very enjoyable little swimming hole directly beneath the cliff. If you are curious about these 3 crags, now is the time to check them out.