Grand Finale open for business!

[scrubber]

Today saw the final buffing of Grand Finale, an alternate five pitch finish to the grand Wall, or any other route above Bellygood Ledge. Many thanks to everyone who was patient with me blocking off access to routes at the base of the Grand for so many days because of rockfall. Another week should see the last of the dust washed or blown away.

The route was redpointed last September, but thoroughly buffed through last winter and the spring. After the falcon closure is lifted for the year, the route can be found by traversing just past the first exposed section of Bellygood ledge. (about 50m right from the top belay on the Grand Wall). For now, if you'd like to check it out, either hike to Bellygood, or climb Millennium Falcon, Stairway to Heaven, or some other route to get up there. The start of the climb is marked by a two bolt anchor 20 feet left of the Upper Black Dyke.

The pitches are 10c, 11a A0, 10d, 10b, 10a. The climbing on the first three pitches is very much like Cruel Shoes, linking discontinuous features. The final two pitches are knobby face climbing through the Xenolith band that crosses high on the Chief. If you've climbed at the Penthouse, you'll know how fun that rock is. The crux on pitch 2 is about 2m long and easily aidable by pulling on two bolts if you want to skip the fancy slab footwork. The pitch ends with a three bolt ladder to cross a blank spot before the anchor. I'll try to get a topo up soon, but until then, here are a few photos from the FA last fall to whet your appetite. Just think "Like this, but a lot cleaner!"


Starting pitch 1 off of Bellygood


Half way up pitch 1


Looking down on the belay at the top of p1


Patrick and Kristina following p2


pitch 4 face climbing bonanza!


Pitch 5 through the roof. That's a hard-core gal scrubbing on lead!

[gnarnaphobe]

ITSA Wild Route; so ya know its GOOD!

[BlahMatt]

Psyched to get on this once the closure is lifted! Seems like a killer way to finish up the grand!

[jipstyle]

Woo! This looks awesome.

Any comments on the gear? I see bolts but I also see gear hanging from a harness. Sport? Mixed bolts and gear?

Inquiring minds want to know!

[scrubber]

Everything above Bellygood is open, so you can check it out anytime. Parks has said that using Bellygood as access to routes above is okay. That's why I suggested those other routes as options to get up there.

As for rack, you'll need a single rack up to a #1 camalot (you might find a spot for a #2, but I doubt it). Small nuts and cams will be helpful on the first pitch. I usually multi-pitch climb with around 6 draws and 6 single length slings, or 8 and 4, and that seemed to give a few to spare depending on how much pro you place. Pitch 1, 2, 3 are mixed gear and bolts (like Cruel Shoes) and pitch 4 and 5 are entirely bolted.

Enjoy!

Kris

[jipstyle]

Awesome.

Thanks Kris!

[Dru]

The first pitch or so has seen some previous attempts, yes? I seem to recall hearing that it got tried as long ago as the 80s - my old Campbell guide has it shown as 5.8 and I recall there was a rotted sling anchor left of the Dyke for a long, long time.

[scrubber]

That's correct Dru. The first half of what is now the first pitch had been climbed previously. At the top of those shallow corners in my second photo was a bail sling on the small pine tree. This is where Grand Finale breaks right across the wall. 4m above and left of that tree is an old 1/4" two bolt anchor. Another 10m up and left of that anchor, is a stainless anchor, right where things blank out completely.

I found out that Peder Ourum and Jim Brennan were responsible for part, if not all of that original first pitch. I'm not sure why they kept going left when the easier climbing was to the right. Maybe just to get away from the Black Dyke and out into that impressively smooth headwall? Their line looks like it could be continued up into the abandoned project of Dean Hart's below the Penthouse. It would probably be 11+ or 12- slab though. I'm planning on cleaning off and disposing of Dean's old tattered ropes while I still have some equipment up there. If anyone has contact info for Dean please let me know. I cleaned up an old stash of his mostly rotted gear, clothing and ropes from the base of that project. A couple of the items are salvageable though.

K

[scrubber]

The Grand Wall is open, so get up there and try this thing out!

I saw a few parties on it yesterday afternoon.

[Brendan]

I cleaned up an old stash of (Dean’s) mostly rotted gear, clothing and ropes from the base of that project. A couple of the items are salvageable though.

His tattered tights perhaps?