first time in squamish: Easy multipitch climb for a friend?

[jo247]

Hey guys,

I'll be in squamish for the first time in a few weeks. I'll be with my brother + a friend of ours who is a total beginner.

My brother and I both climb trad + aid, but our friend has never climbed before. We would really like to bring him up on a nice easy multi pitch climb. It can be fairly well protected trad or sport. Something around 5.6 or 5.7, a few pitches high (7 pitches or less?).

Do you have anything in specific that you would recommand ? Also, what is THE guidebook I should buy when I arrive in squamish? And where can I buy it ?

Thanks a lot you guys, looking forward to see some of you at the crag soon !

climb safe,

[scrubber]

For a total beginner, some of the best multipitch routes to take them on would be Charlotte's Web at Chek (5.8, 2p), or Banana Peel on the Apron (5.7, 6p) There are lots of great moderate multipitch routes around that need a bit of crack technique, so if your friend is a complete novice these face routes might be a better choice.

As for THE guidebook, well, there may only be one available when you get here. Currently both of the local books are out of print. As you can see in the ad on the top of this page, the new Squamish Select book is expected hot-off-the-presses in a few days. As for the other guide, which is a larger, comprehensive style guide by Kevin McLane, it's replacement is due out next spring I believe. You can rent a copy of the older version of the comprehensive or select guide at Valhalla Pure, and maybe Climb On too, but I'm not certain.

Enjoy your trip!

Kris

[steven]

Skywalker near Shannon Falls is a good multipitch option. It is 5.8 with 5 pitches, beautiful views, and it's well protected. 5.8 is a bit harder then you had requested but there is only one pitch of 5.8 and it eats up as much finger sized gear as you have and it is dead straight (no pendulum potential for the second). Although the grade is low, I wouldn't necessarily suggest Banana Peel as a good climb to put a complete beginner on. There is a couple of short unprotected traverses that are super easy but aren't a place where I would particularly want to fall. Calculus crack is another one to take a look at (also 5..

[outofbounds]

AMO Wall at Shannon falls has some good, well protected slab routes. Search the "New Routes" forum for info.

[squamish climber]

I would second out of bounds recommendation about AMO wall. These are bolt protected slabs and easy moderate ground. It's around Shannon Falls.

[J Mace]

All those topos and all the bluffs, squaw left...have been pulled. Why not make a page similar to quick draw and we can go back to having all the topos and such easily printable?

I can scan my amo wall topo and repost, but would be nice to have a devoted page. The bluffs stuff is still available on flickr and Squaw left is still on Frimers site.