Fred Beckey and Climbing Mag. put Angel's Crest as his fav

[squamish climber]

The latest issue of Climbing Magazine has paid homage to fabled climber Fred Beckey by selecting eight climbs from his new beautiful looking coffee table book, Fred Beckey’s 100 Favourite North American Climbs.

Number one is the 13 pitch classic, Angel's Crest, the magazine says it’s 5.10b but Bourdon’s guide calls it 5.10c. Not bad considering Beckey has made 100s of first ascents across North America.

Beckey calls Angel’s Crest a “coveted climb” despite the “medieval greenery and forested ledges.” I don’t think the tree climbing and shrub pulling options have changed much in the 48 years since he did the FA in 1964.

So let’s hear it for your Angel’s Crest stories. Or if you have had any Fred Beckey encounters post them up.


The book has just been published and is available from Patagonia for $79.95 US

[natsdad]

I love Angel's Crest, especially the great variation pitch, up high (just above the last Acrophobe tower). This pitch needs more traffic: instead of fighting the tree to get on the 5.7 crack that leads to the whaleback, walk a very short distance to the right (10 or 15 meters, max) and climb up the right facing corner. It starts off dirty, but gets really nice past 5 meters - great jamming and stemming lead through a bulging overhang and (almost) straight up to the belay (hanging cedar tree and piton) at the start of the 5.10 "slot" pitch. Beautiful pitch (despite the start)! Give it a try (bring a wide variety of gear, emphasizing hand size and a few bigger pieces).

Anyone have any history on this pitch (I think it is mid 5.10)?

Steve

ps: Not sure I'd call it Fred's best - the Beckey/Chouinard on South Howser in the Bugs gets my vote.

[squamish climber]

Thanks Steve,

There are a couple posts on the forum about good variation pitches for AC, including the one you mention.

I think the title for this post is a little misleading Climbing magazine chose eight climbs from Beckey's book 100 favourite climbs and listed Angel's Crest first. So this should read Climbing Magazine's pick of Beckey's Favourite climbs or something.

[Brendan]

March 24 - Red Rocks

[squamish climber]

That is a great portrait Brendan. What is he, 89? and still climbing. Inspiring.

[Fre]

Nice portrait. I bumped into Becky last year at Shannon Falls. He was making his way up Klahanie crack. As a fellow Fred, I asked for a picture but he politely declined. Last November (I think), he gave a presentation at UBC that was well attended.