Smoke Bluffs Guidebook Questions - Help!

[Marc Bourdon]

Hey Smoke Bluffs Aficionados ,

I'm almost finished the new Select Guide and have a few loose ends that need tying up. If anyone has info on the following, please either post here or email me through the website. Your help would be greatly appreciated!

Easter Island - There is a left-to-right traverse just below Out to Lunge (they are very similar looking lines). Anyone know the name of this or who did the FA? Seems to be around 5.9.

Laughing Crack - Anyone know who put the bolt line in left of Laughing CRack, and what it is? It's rumored to be 13a, but I have no other info.

Cat Crack - Anyone offically know the deal with the line just right of the crack. There are a few bolts on the slab, but no info has ever surfaced about what this climb is or who put it there.

Bughouse Heights - There is a fully boltled face just righ of Sudden Impact and what looks like an abandoned line up a shallow groove feature to the left. Anyone know what these two climbs are?

Octopus' Garden - Anyone know the last name or conact info for the fellow who did the FA of Leonissisation, the super thin bolted slab on the left side of the main cliff? All I've got is "Simon".

Funarma - Anyone know who did the FA of I'm No Believer?

Thanks!
Marc Bourdon - http://www.quickdrawpublications.com

[scrubber]

C'mon everyone, dig deep into the cobweb corners of yer brains! I've filled in a few other blanks, but these ones are beyond my knowledge. If you like the Squamish bouldering guide that came out last summer you'll have an idea what this new select guide will be like.

Help get this thing to the printer!

Kris

[Dru]

I know he's changed his name, but I can't remember what he changed it to - anyways, the guy who used to be named Mark Bosomworth was involved in that Easter Island traverse.

And isn't the bolted route right of Sudden Impact a Payan/Thomson 10b?

[squamish climber]

Cat Crack: the slab climb next to Cat Crack is a mystery. Here is a discussion on the forum about it.

http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F% ... cViPfOGO1A

5.4Slayer. Thanks for pointing that out. Ooops! The name was so fitting too, being between Flying Circus and Cat Crack... Well then, I'd better change the name. The FA was bit of a circus itself... half-drunk, full of dinner, rain starting to fall. And all of 2 parties in the bluffs were out---us and a party on The Edge, the bolted 10a arete just right of the new crack.

Let's rename it Mouse Trap. I checked the current guidebooks and neither list one. This one goes the other way down the food chain.

by Dru » Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:14 am
If this is the formerly tree-filled grovel just left of The Edge, I know it's been climbed before. I think I climbed it myself in '91 after chickening out of leading the Edge... I doubt that was the first time though. I believe the mysteriously unnamed and poorly bolted route just right of Cat Crack also begins up this crack before stepping out left onto the face. Removing the trees is probably a good idea. Can you jam now?

[Marc Bourdon]

Thanks Guys! Updates...

Easter Island - Dru, do you know how to contact Mark or do you have any more info about the climb, like name and grade?

Laughing Crack - I found out who bolted it. It's not had a first ascent as far as I know and it's an open project. Likely 12+/13- slab. Get on it!!!

Cat Crack - I'm not talking about Jeremy's new crack climb. I'm talking about the old slab climb JUST right of Cat Crack. Seems to be an on-going mystery.

Bughouse Heights - The route I'm talking about is between Sudden Impact and the Payan-Thomson route. It's a new-ish, fully bolted line. Maybe Barley...

Octopus' Garden - I got Simon's last name. Done.

Funarma - It's an old route (I'm No Believer). Harry says it's a mystery. Nobody knows who put it up and they asked around.

[Dru]

I don't know how to contact Mark or have any more info. Pretty sure I saw the route written up in a Climb-On new book circa 1998?

ahem, edit: actually it's in Kevin McLane's 2005 guidebook. "It is possible to hand traverse from low on Out To Lunge (5.8?) M. Bosomworth, D. Horne April 98"

As for "I'm No Believer" (original name unknown) this got scrubbed and partially bolted (first two bolts plus a hangerless bolt higher up) in 1996. I have no idea who, but I'm certain about the when. It fully mossed over after that, and was basically unclimbable under the moss from 2001 till the recent full revamp of Funarama.

[scrubber]

It seems like you got what you needed about the line that Mark and Derek did. If not, I know him and he now lives in Kamloops. He is now Mark Mason.

[Anders Ourom]

Cat Crack - Anyone offically know the deal with the line just right of the crack. There are a few bolts on the slab, but no info has ever surfaced about what this climb is or who put it there.

Who wouldn't want to remain anonymous, having done a ridiculous squeeze job like that?