Rambles (4p, 5.8)

[Optimally-Primed]

Announcements numbering three.

First, I regret to announce my retirement from route development in Squamish. Over the past 5 years, I've established or cleaned about 60 pitches. I've thoroughly enjoyed myself and, like Hevy, feel lucky to have been a part of Squamish's second Golden Era. I hope that my efforts have created enjoyable and memorable experiences. My last route could have been called "Movin' to Manitoba". Work calls. Folks, it's been a blast.

Second, allow me to introduce two new Diggers: George and Cyrus. They put in a ton of work into the new route (announced below) and are Diggers to look out for in the future. Tip of the hat to the fellas. Nathalie, Renee, Martin, and Jay also did great work on this project.

Third, the new route is called Rambles. It's 4 pitches and 5.8. It starts about 60m from the Apron Parking Lot and might have the shortest approach to a multipitch in Squamish. Rambles is a great first multipitch, with well-protected, short cruxes, and varied climbing. It also makes for great access to the Diedre area climbs. Imagine a 10 pitch 5.8 route. Imagine no longer. Enjoy it.

download a topo

Pitch 1 starts up a 5.6 groove


The 5.7 crux of the pitch is a face move past a bolt


then a little padding to the anchor

Pitch 2 moves right along an easy crack.


the pitch ends with two short 5.7 cruxes


Pitch 3 rambles upwards past 5 bolts




Pitch 4 tackles a short, steep headwall. The route goes out right at 5.8. A variation (10b) goes straight up the overhanging corner.


leaving the slab, entering the crux


finishing the crux

[Lurch]

Nice work Jer and crew! Local noobs will miss your controversial ways.

[AaronRN]

Sorry to see you're moving to Manitoba Jeremy. Great looking route, IMO "Moving to Manitoba" is a MUCH better name then "Rambles", Given that you're been know for considering the opinions of others on matters concerning your routes, a quality rare amongst route developers, I submit that you change the name to "Moving to Manitoba".
Aaron.

[Lurch]

Ditto.

[Optimally-Primed]

Thanks for the suggestion. I agree that M to M has a nice ring to it. For various reasons, however, Rambles will be the name. The route is named after someone. And it is now in the soon-to-be-printed next edition of the Squamish Select. Besides, M to M is about me. This route is about you and your experience. I hope that any effects I had on Squamish exists in the memories of people who know me and in the next generation of climbers who wonder "who put in these perfectly placed bolts?"

[smallman]

Sorry to hear that work is taking you east Jer. You sparked a revival of Squamish new routing and set a new standard for route cleaniness. Hopefully you have the time to do the same in NW ontario if you are based out of Winnipeg.

[Optimally-Primed]

Thanks Chris! I'm psyched to hear you say that!

[squamish climber]

Jeremy et crew -- thanks for the great addition.

New routes on the Apron are rare -- looks like a great easy moderate and one that's bound to see a lot of traffic.

Glad to hear you're passing the torch to some motivated diggers. You're going to be missed but long remembered.

Good luck.

[George]

Thanks for everything Jeremy. This has been an incredible experience.

Hop on it everybody! I'd love to hear everyone's feedback.

george

[scrubber]

I raise my glass to you Jer! Thanks for helping to revitalize my gardening passions post-parenthood.

(And I don't believe for a second that this will be the last route you develop in Squamish!)

I think one of us will find a route to name Movin' to Manitoba this summer in your honor.

K

[Khoi]

I was great to finally meet you Jeremy! I guess I can say that I had a miniscule part on that route, having sold you some of the bolts/hangers.

I'm sorry to hear that you're not gonna stick around.

Have a great time in Manitoba!

(What's the climbing like there????)

[Optimally-Primed]

Kris, I'm touched.
Little did I know that I helped nudge the Wayne Gretzky of Squamish route development into wearing the 99 once again.
I'd be honoured to know that a route has that name...
J

[Lurch]

Awesome Route! Did it the other day. I highly reccomend getting the extra pitches in rather than walking to the base of Diedre area... Thanks Jer and Friends!

[NateDoggOG]

Looks like a fun outing in itself, as well as a better way to avoid the scramble.
Wish I could have met you in person Jer before you left for Manitoba.
Thanks for the climbs.

Nathan

[supafly]

Thanks for all your hard work Jeremy, and thanks for this new route.. I look forward to getting on it on the next dry day.

Any comments on how quickly it dries?