Local climber Jason Kruk makes historic ascent of compressor

[jipstyle]

[staven]

Awesome! I'm big in Japan.

[AaronRN]

Jason Kruk: Alpine Artist

VIMFF Finale
Saturday, February 18, 7:30 pm (doors 6:30 pm)
Centennial Theatre
As one of a handful of motivated young alpine climbers in North America, Jason has made adventure climbing his priority, attempting bold new routes on legendary peaks like Cerro Torre and the North Twin. Always in the funniest style possible, whether light, fast, or free. It's simply a new way of looking at these historic faces.
Wish I could attend just for the Q&A. Given all the heat he's gotten over this I wonder if anyone will have the balls to call him out on stage. This could go down like the Banff IMFF when Jon Krakauer called out Anatoli Boukreev on stage saying he was "full of sh*t" to his face no less.

For the record. I support Jason on this one. Basically I see this whole issue boiling down to one question. "Does the first accentionist have the right to f**k things up?" For me, the answer is no. Many would like to draw parallels and sighting things like the tolerated bolt ladders in an other area as being hypocritical. I see no hypocrisy at all.

Climbing's is a bit like Gridiron Football. Depending were you are, the game is played by different rules. Try and have 12 players on the field in the US and the reff is going to call a foul. In Canada having 12 players on the field is ok. As in climbing, try and develop a sport route in Skaha like you're climbing in J-tree -with deck potential after the 3rd bolt- and people are going to cry bullsh*t, and "fix it". Try and develop a route in Yosemite like you're developing a route in Squamish and not only are people going to call bullsh*t, but you're likely going to go to jail. Different arenas have different rules, in climbing little to nothing is universal. My 2 cents.

[slopr]

whether they(bolts) were right or wrong Kk were visiting the area and did not respect the local consensus
that had been agreed upon.

key word:



respect.


good climb tainted by a dick move

who would ever think to do that anywhere while travelling!
or at home...

the fact that they discussed it only for
a short time on the summit before making the call to chop shows unbelievably poor
foresight and judgement, as if they weren't secure enough with their own ascent that
they needed to objectify the compressor route to prove their bitchingness & how much better
what they had just climbed was. Then they didn't even chop all the stupid bolts!! Then Lama
comes & sends it in everyone's face without the freshly chopped bolts rendering KKs 5.11 A2 variation into a virtual piece of piss!! in the meantime old Maestri is somewhere in Italy just fuming-or laughing!! Oh the irony!

way to go kk

[steve_trad]

American and Canadian chopping bolts in another country. Sounds like a firestorm is brewing, and would hate to see the nose of el cap get chopped, by a South American.

We cannot push our ethics on others. Areas and traditions need to be respected even when we do not agree with them. It happened in my area, when people put glue ins on a Henry Barber classic.

[squamish climber]

So I met Jason over a beer at the Howe Sound Inn last week and interviewed him for a feature article. There is a lot of ground covered in the piece, so get a coffee or a beer ready because it's long. But you will discover and learn some things about Jason that have not really come out in some of the news and blog posts.

Whatever you might think of their decision to chop the bolts, it's clear to me that Jason has it pretty well sorted on where he's at, what he's doing and following his convictions.

The article is in the editor zone on the main page here's the link http://squamishclimbing.com/2012/02/15/ ... interview/

Please let me know what you think by commenting on it here. And keep the discourse civil and respectful.

And a reminder that Jason and Hayden Kennedy are the speakers at the VIMFF this Saturday. Better hurry up and get your tickets if you haven't done so, I think it's going to get interesting.

[BlahMatt]

The link shows an Wordpress Error: "You do not have permission to preview drafts."

Looking forward to VIMFF on Saturday!

[c-plus]

The link shows an Wordpress Error: "You do not have permission to preview drafts."

this seemed to work better:
http://squamishclimbing.com/2012/02/15/ ... interview/

[squamish climber]

Thanks for catching the bad link - it's fixed now so both are working.

[squamish climber]

Pre-sale tickets for tonight are no longer available. Some tickets will be available at the door but they warn they expect those tickets to sell out too. So get there early if you plan to go. See VIMFF.

And if you can't make it, for the first time VIMFF will livestream the event on Outerlocal http://teton.outerlocal.com/climbing/ke ... ht-outpost. This is going to a memorable night as Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy are together for the first time post- Patagonia to talk about the climb and controversy.

[squamish climber]

Short brief promo video of David Lama on the Compressor Route

http://www.redbull.com/cs/Satellite/en_ ... 3166642708