Dry Tooling

[breadbin]

A search on the forum has brought up Cacodemon boulder a number of times - but I was wondering if there are other areas anyone would recommend for some dry-tooling practice? Either around Squamish or closer to Vancouver?

It's my first season on tools so am looking for areas that I could set up a top-rope to practice.

Thanks!

Ed

[staven]

Check out http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_cl ... =16&t=3263 about dry tooling at Greenwood Park (North Van Quarry).

[breadbin]

Ha ha - thanks staven - I did see that one too.

However all the "trash" talk, literally & figuratively had me discount it!
A look wouldn't do any harm I suppose...!

[breadbin]

"i am extremely uncomfortable drytooling summer rock routes, and dont think its particularly a good idea"

I'm in full agreement, my aim isn't to drytool the summer rock routes. This year I got myself some tools with an aim to do ice and alpine. Working full time & with a family, my free time is limited, so in between the odd times I can get full days & weekends out on real ice or alpine routes, I'm basically looking for places I can monkey around on to get a feel for climbing with axes & crampons.

I thought of asking at the Cliffhanger here in town just to see the look on their faces!

[Brendan]

Even if it is acceptable to dry tool the Upper Black Dyke, why waste your time? It climbs at like .8 or .9 and is a slab with jugs.

[scrubber]

Please do not dry-tool any existing free routes. Even though granite is pretty hard, and it does less damage per climber than nailing it, it definitely alters the shape of the holds and often leaves big scratches from skittering crampons. There is a prime example of this at a little used sport crag near Brackendale. The scratches really detract from the esthetic of the cliff in my opinion.

I have on multiple occasions seen folks practicing dry tooling on that old ill-conceived, manufactured atrocity on the back side of the Cacodemon Boulder. It's all downward angling drilled pockets so it's really positive for tools and crampons. The "route" is such an embarrassment to most people who see it that it's unlikely anyone would be irked by you adding your tool marks to it.

Beyond that, there are literally hundreds of little undeveloped cliffs in the Chekamus canyon area that you could throw a top-rope on and have a play with your tools. The rock is steeper and much more featured than the regular granite in squamish proper, so you would likely have an easier time with it. I would encourage you to think critically about your choice of crag before you start though. If you think the wall could ever hold some worthwhile rock climbs, maybe pick a different spot.
Happy hooking!

[staven]

What's the sport crag near Brackendale? Debeck's hill choss?

[Dru]

The UBD was climbed when the last two pitches were all ice, and even then they used rock shoes and bare hands on the first two pitches.

Likewise Diedre was all ice when it was climbed at WI3.

Climbing either of them with no ice is straight up dumb. You might as well dry tool Corn Flakes or Kangaroo Corner. If you pull a stunt like that, you deserve the beating the locals will lay on you.*

* back in the day (81?) Don Serl and accomplice drytooled Foot in the Gravy. You can't get away with stunts like that anymore. The type of junk you can do when there are a dozen local climbers active at a crag is a lot different when there are thousands from all over the world there.

[Dru]

actually speaking of drytooling, there is one unclimbed line that would probably make an awesome turf route at the Reabilitation Projects in the right (cold) conditions. Basically the gully to the right of Memphis Bound. 50m long with thick, thick moss, lots of dirt, positive edges and a 2 inch crack deep in the back for pro. I had my eye on this for a number of years looking for ice but it never seems to form any. You could even use the intermediate belay of Memphis Bound if you needed to. Probably goes at around trad M5.

[scrubber]

What's the sport crag near Brackendale? Debeck's hill choss?

There is a nice little crag hiding in the trees just off the highway on the east side, about 200-300m north of the Dryden Creek campground/ Depot Road intersection. I was partly responsible for the cleaning of it back in 2001 or so. It would be a popular little crag if there were just more of it. It's nearly 30m tall, but the good part of it is only about 25m wide. When every half-decent line was utilized, it only yielded about six or seven routes. We lost interest after moving back downtown and not having it right out our back door.

It has seen intermittent attention in the past decade. It is mentioned as a footnote at the end of Kevin McLane's last guide. When the Mountain Bike trail "Wonderland" was completed about five years ago, it provided even easier access to the crag, as it runs right under it. It's worth a look, although it's very green right now.

[staven]

Thanks Scrubber, I have seen the crag. Unfortunately the bolts are getting swallowed by the moss, but it's definitely a fun looking little zone. It looks interesting further up the hill above the talus, but I've heard it's all rotten up there. Anything promising that you know of at the margins of the choss? Looks like a nice little cliff at the south end.

[scrubber]

I've been up to that steep wall above a few times over the years. Each time trying to convince myself that it might be worth the effort.
It's just a bit too:
1. Loose
2. Far of a walk
3. Steep/ drop-off at base
4. Off the beaten track with relation to other crags

There are several abandoned, faded, and frayed ropes hanging off it and a few semi completed lines with some bolts. It looks like someone got started then just fizzled out, lost interest, or left town. The biggest thing it has going for it is the view. It's the only fully south facing, overhanging sport crag I can think of in Squamish. There are almost to trees in front of it either because it's on a steep hill.
Maybe you should give it a fresh look...

Kris

[staven]

Sounds like it could be interesting, I'll try to get up there and check it out sometime. It would be an amazing view.

[scrubber]

Hike up the mountain bike trail at the north end of of Tantalus road. A flagged trail goes off to the left after about 15 or 20 min.

[staven]

Thanks. What colour flagging?