Direct Start to Fear of Flying (11a).

Everything and anything to do with climbing in Squamish.
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joewtc
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Direct Start to Fear of Flying (11a).

Post by joewtc » Wed Oct 26, 2011 12:41 pm

Anyone knows or has climbed the direct straight-up start to Fear of Flying (11a)? What's the grade?

*Fear of Flying is the climb on the right of Flying Circus at Neat and Cool. You climb up Flying Circus, traversed right and then follow the 2 bolts to the top.

scrubber
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Re: Direct Start to Fear of Flying (11a).

Post by scrubber » Wed Oct 26, 2011 5:35 pm

I'm not sure it's really been claimed as an independent start. I guess most people who are trying to make it an entirely independent line just use the face features immediately right of Flying Circus, but avoid touching the crack. (at least that's what I did yesterday while playing in the sun with my soloist) If you were to push straight up the middle of the slab between FS and The Flake I suppose you could come up with something a few grades harder. Nearly every square millimeter of that crag has had someone paddling around on it at some time. It's probably a contender for most heavily used crag in Squamish.

Kris

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Re: Direct Start to Fear of Flying (11a).

Post by NateDoggOG » Wed Oct 26, 2011 8:34 pm

scrubber wrote:...at least that's what I did yesterday while playing in the sun with my soloist...
Ah, saw you there yesterday with Peder and some others. I had the camera while the girl was belaying my friend up N&C. I wasn't feeling well so did very little climbing.

joewtc
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Re: Direct Start to Fear of Flying (11a).

Post by joewtc » Thu Oct 27, 2011 10:45 am

Thanks Kris! I was TR rope soloing the blank slab between Flying Circus and The Flake on Tue. After going up for a while, there are a few metres of blank spot I couldn't find any thing (except a few decent right hand side-pulls) and I had to swing back left to finish up on Flying Circus. Really want to work on it as a personal slab practice. Thanks!

scrubber
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Re: Direct Start to Fear of Flying (11a).

Post by scrubber » Fri Oct 28, 2011 11:53 am

Try the new-ish slab route beside Octopus' Garden. It's really good.

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