new routes at Fern Hill?
new routes at Fern Hill?
Slayer and I were up at Fern yesterday and got on the new routes to the far left. 11a 11c 11d and the 12- does anyone know the names of the routes?
Indecently the nut,hanger and draw fell off the third fixed draw on the 11a after i clipped the fourth bolt. I had a spare nut and wrench so we put it back up.
Indecently the nut,hanger and draw fell off the third fixed draw on the 11a after i clipped the fourth bolt. I had a spare nut and wrench so we put it back up.
DJ 1%
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
Left to right:
Hot Chaud 12b ish
The Lady Switcher 11a ish (traverse with fixed draws)
The Dividing Line 11c (up the open book corner)
Mudraker 11d
Thankfully Dale has gotten the scrubbing bug and put up 3 of the routes. More to come in that area and I sent a topo to quickdraw and here (I think). Comments on grade etc are welcomed for consensus.
Hot Chaud 12b ish
The Lady Switcher 11a ish (traverse with fixed draws)
The Dividing Line 11c (up the open book corner)
Mudraker 11d
Thankfully Dale has gotten the scrubbing bug and put up 3 of the routes. More to come in that area and I sent a topo to quickdraw and here (I think). Comments on grade etc are welcomed for consensus.
- 5.4 Slayer
- Senior Member
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 5:54 am
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
Grading:
Hot Chaud - harder 12a or 12b(ish) fun, very cool route
The Lady Switcher - sandbagged at 11a, 11b, possibly c for me
The Divine Line - 11c seemed good to me, fun!
Mudraker - it took a bunch of thrashing for me/us to figure out some beta for it to go so after we ironed out the beta Dakine thought it was good at 11d.
I originally couldn't even pull 2 of the moves, then barely hung on for the send. Much grunting and groaning! It's at least 12a or b for me.
Hot Chaud - harder 12a or 12b(ish) fun, very cool route
The Lady Switcher - sandbagged at 11a, 11b, possibly c for me
The Divine Line - 11c seemed good to me, fun!
Mudraker - it took a bunch of thrashing for me/us to figure out some beta for it to go so after we ironed out the beta Dakine thought it was good at 11d.
I originally couldn't even pull 2 of the moves, then barely hung on for the send. Much grunting and groaning! It's at least 12a or b for me.
- 5.4 Slayer
- Senior Member
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 5:54 am
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
oh, thanks for the reply Peter.
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
Ditto on the thanks Peter. They are really nice additions to the wall for sure.
Hot Chaud -12b fun, very cool route
The Lady Switcher - sandbagged at 11a, it felt closer grade wise to the Divine Line.
The Divine Line - 11c bang on for the grade to me.
Mudraker .... Hard 11d (harder than the Pleasure Dome for example)
Hot Chaud -12b fun, very cool route
The Lady Switcher - sandbagged at 11a, it felt closer grade wise to the Divine Line.
The Divine Line - 11c bang on for the grade to me.
Mudraker .... Hard 11d (harder than the Pleasure Dome for example)
DJ 1%
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
5.4 Slayer & Dakine: Thanks for the input! Great to have more climbers on the routes. PS. Sorry about the hanger coming off the 3rd fixie of Lady Switcher. Kind of bizarre... I always ream hardcore on those things. Thanks for putting it back up though! Awesome!
More to come...
More to come...
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
The additions look great. Once that wall gets some more traffic and projects sent, it will definitely make Fern Hill a regular stomping ground for alot of climbers. Great work Peter and All.
I tried the 12- and 11- minus routes at the left end and thought the 12- was 12a/b. Crux undercling was pretty powerfull getting into it. Definitely 12b for us shorter folk. As for the 11a, rather stiff. The traverse was techy and pumpy. Probably 11b, once you get it figured out it wouldn't feel so pumpy.
Both routes were fun. Looking forward to trying the others as well.
cheers,
I tried the 12- and 11- minus routes at the left end and thought the 12- was 12a/b. Crux undercling was pretty powerfull getting into it. Definitely 12b for us shorter folk. As for the 11a, rather stiff. The traverse was techy and pumpy. Probably 11b, once you get it figured out it wouldn't feel so pumpy.
Both routes were fun. Looking forward to trying the others as well.
cheers,
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
Hey sandBag, you actually went climbing for once, instead of cleaning... good for you!!!
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
Hey Y'all,
As my final gift to Squamish on my departure, Peter and I put up a new line all the way on left end at the big mossy boulder. It's called "Story of my life" and checks in around 11b. Short, but a pretty neat crux/feature. Peter's got a few routes on that wall that I suspect he'll be finishing up soon. Hopefully these routes will see some great traffic this summer.
Cheers,
Dale
As my final gift to Squamish on my departure, Peter and I put up a new line all the way on left end at the big mossy boulder. It's called "Story of my life" and checks in around 11b. Short, but a pretty neat crux/feature. Peter's got a few routes on that wall that I suspect he'll be finishing up soon. Hopefully these routes will see some great traffic this summer.
Cheers,
Dale
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
There are 3 new ones, including the one Dale mentioned:
Story of My Life 11b/c far left end of the crag. 6 bolts
Where Are They Now 12b, left of Dividing Line. 11 bolts.
Happy Feet 5.8 left of Honeymoon is Over, up the broken corner.
3 more to come and that should be it.....
Story of My Life 11b/c far left end of the crag. 6 bolts
Where Are They Now 12b, left of Dividing Line. 11 bolts.
Happy Feet 5.8 left of Honeymoon is Over, up the broken corner.
3 more to come and that should be it.....
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
We climbed Lady Switcher and Story of My Life yesterday . Two great and totally different style routes. Lady Switcher is IMO the best 5.11 sport route in all of Squamish. 5.11B hard. (and that's not a fluffy grade)
Story of My Life is like bouldering on a rope, V3/4 problem, can I suggest 5.11+
Nice work guys.
Rolf
Story of My Life is like bouldering on a rope, V3/4 problem, can I suggest 5.11+
Nice work guys.
Rolf
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
Left of Hot Chaud,
Who's Next?
12b, 6 bolts
power endurance?
Who's Next?
12b, 6 bolts
power endurance?
Re: new routes at Fern Hill?
Hey Peter,
Slayer and I went up to taste the new routes
Story of My Life, boldery 11c
Who's Next? 12b was fun! athletic with cool movement.
Where Are They Now 12b did one quick burn on this, odd movement solid crux sequence
Thans to you and Dale, nice additions to an amazing wall. Still my favorite crag to climb at!
Slayer and I went up to taste the new routes
Story of My Life, boldery 11c
Who's Next? 12b was fun! athletic with cool movement.
Where Are They Now 12b did one quick burn on this, odd movement solid crux sequence
Thans to you and Dale, nice additions to an amazing wall. Still my favorite crag to climb at!
DJ 1%
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