U Wall hauling and descent beta?
U Wall hauling and descent beta?
Hi there,
My girlfriends and I are practicing for a Nose ascent, and are planning to climb and practice our hauling systems on U Wall this weekend. We haven't been able to find much hauling beta, and are wondering if most people haul all the way to the top and then rap Uncle Bens? Or is it possible to haul to the top of Pitch 5, leave the pig, climb to the top, rap back to the top of Pitch 7, and back over to the top of Pitch 5 with 2 70m ropes? Any other hauling/descent beta would be appreciated...
Also, any reason not to fix to the top of Pitch 4 on day 1 (vs. pitch 3, which is what we've read most parties do)?
Thanks!
My girlfriends and I are practicing for a Nose ascent, and are planning to climb and practice our hauling systems on U Wall this weekend. We haven't been able to find much hauling beta, and are wondering if most people haul all the way to the top and then rap Uncle Bens? Or is it possible to haul to the top of Pitch 5, leave the pig, climb to the top, rap back to the top of Pitch 7, and back over to the top of Pitch 5 with 2 70m ropes? Any other hauling/descent beta would be appreciated...
Also, any reason not to fix to the top of Pitch 4 on day 1 (vs. pitch 3, which is what we've read most parties do)?
Thanks!
Re: U Wall hauling and descent beta?
not sure about the rest but.. bring a rain jacket!
Re: U Wall hauling and descent beta?
Best advise is to do it in a day. Ha
To get bag up to the starting pitch, don't bring it with you up approach. One person hike approach with haul rope one person hike onto Flake Ledge to where you can traverse back towards the long sport pitch that comes from the base of U wall. Haul to start here.
Haul to Second Belay and then from top of third and every pitch after. Because of the traverse on the last pitch I would plan on either traversing belly good with a bag, painful and slow or rapping uncle bens. Rapping bens is easy but not a give away. When rapping from above the roof. You are best to rap from one pitch above roof to the tree belay at the start of Golden Throat Charmer. Getting to this belay can seem really tough especially if you are the one trying to get to the anchor with the pig. Other then that have fun
To get bag up to the starting pitch, don't bring it with you up approach. One person hike approach with haul rope one person hike onto Flake Ledge to where you can traverse back towards the long sport pitch that comes from the base of U wall. Haul to start here.
Haul to Second Belay and then from top of third and every pitch after. Because of the traverse on the last pitch I would plan on either traversing belly good with a bag, painful and slow or rapping uncle bens. Rapping bens is easy but not a give away. When rapping from above the roof. You are best to rap from one pitch above roof to the tree belay at the start of Golden Throat Charmer. Getting to this belay can seem really tough especially if you are the one trying to get to the anchor with the pig. Other then that have fun
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