Gear anchors in a single vertical crack
Gear anchors in a single vertical crack
Being somewhat inexperienced at placing gear anchors, can anyone comment on the relative disadvantages of using only a singe vertical crack to set up an anchor? At the top of the original 1st pitch of Calculus Crack, I used three cams and a nut, spaced about a foot apart each (or less), and all four pieces were equalized using a loop of 7mm cordolet. I browsed through Freedom of the Hills and didn't find anything specific, but it did mention that the less of an angle between pieces, the less stress on the system. I guess it may be better to use a different crack system in case an edge breaks off, but I didn't have another option at the time, other than belaying at a slightly different spot, but the small ledge seemed nicer to stand on. Thanks for any advice.
Re: Gear anchors in a single vertical crack
Yep, you gotta do what you gotta do...
That spot on Calculus doesn't really allow for much in the way of variety in terms of building an anchor.
Several pieces in the same crack is better than a single piece, that's for sure. But, you probably don't need four pieces, even if it is just a single crack. Just make sure one of the pieces is a bomber cam, and that the whole thing is completely equalized.
That's what I would do, anyway.
That spot on Calculus doesn't really allow for much in the way of variety in terms of building an anchor.
Several pieces in the same crack is better than a single piece, that's for sure. But, you probably don't need four pieces, even if it is just a single crack. Just make sure one of the pieces is a bomber cam, and that the whole thing is completely equalized.
That's what I would do, anyway.
Re: Gear anchors in a single vertical crack
Thanks, I figured it was bomber but just wanted to check. I'll put in less gear next time. 

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