New Topo for new routes at Lower Pet Wall, Murrin Park

[smallman]

I have finally got around to writing up info for new routes which were developed at Lower Pet Wall in the summers of 2009 and 2010. Sorry for the wait.

New Routes 2009 – 2010 Pet Wall, Murrin Park, Squamish, BC

By Chris Small

Here is an updated topo for new routes developed in 2009 – 2010 at the Western end of Pet Wall, Murrin Park, Squamish.

From Right to Left from Big Guns (11c).

A) Where art thou Romeo? – 11d/12a – sport Ten Bolts. 30m (Mike Styles, Ryan Von H, June 2010), ***. Named after the unfortunately deceased dog Romeo, who was a likely cougar snack. Follows the first seven bolts of Harry(‘s) Petting Zoo (11c), diverging right at the seventh bolt to finish on a difficult thin seam.
B) Harry[‘s] Petting Zoo – 11c. Mixed. 7 bolts, pro to 2” (30m). Harry Young, Jade Dumas. June 2010. ****. An excellent climb possessing technical moves in the lower section leading to a devious committing crux through a roof midway. Diverges left with easier climbing after this crux through an alcove (pro to 2 “).
C) Underwire- 10d/ 11a. Sport. 7 bolts. 25m. Chris Small, Elaine Forsman. June 2010. ****. A stellar climb with technical lower sections, traversing left under a rounded breast-like bulge to a burly finish through the bulge onto a large ledge. Named for the thin crack at the base of the bulge.
D) Cleavage – 10d. Mixed. 6 bolts gear to 2 inches. 30m. Chris Small, Lauren Evanson, 2010. ***Climb Underwire to the roof then trend right through a cleavage to the anchors of Harry [‘s] Petting Zoo. Can be shortened to end on the Under wire anchors.
E) Heavy Petting Action - 10a. 13 bolts. Chris Small, 2009. 30m. ****. An excellent route. Long and sustained – with multiple technical and pumpy cruxes climbing through a series of bulges. Distinguished by the tag on the first bolt and huge detached flake at between second and third bolts. A couple of longer extendable draws will help with rope drag .An awesome warm-up for the rest of Pet Wall’s test pieces. Quality moderates at Pet wall – who would have thought that!
F) A Cougar One Bite Brownie- 10 a. Mixed (sport plus – 9 bolts and optional pro 0.75” to 2”). 30m. **. Named after a WEIRD ironic incident during the summer of 2009 when Squamish’s cougars (feline variety) were on the prowl; this route is the less sustained cousin of Heavy Petting Action. Nice pulling on slopers in the lower sections leads to a couple of spicy moves on a huge flake at the top. Shares anchors with Heavy Petting Action.

Two very hard open projects have also been scrubbed in this area. One is between Harry’ Petting Zoo and Under wire (likely will be mixed and require a couple of bolts). The other would be an extension of Underwire to the top of the cliff (or possible link up of heavy petting action, underwire and the underwire extension).

[MarkR]

This looks great Chris, can't wait to go check these out. Thanks for all your hard work.

[Peter]

I'll add that Beers Are Not Enough has been recleaned (with new bolts placed by SAS project). It goes at 10d with a small mixed rack up to #2ish camalot. For those not familiar it's the main corner right of No Name Road.

[Optimally-Primed]

great work, Chris. This looks like a lot of fun.

Are you planning to release a topo along with route descriptions? Any photos?

[smallman]

I tried to take photos of the area but those darn trees block most of the cliff. I did draw up a topo and can see if i can scan that over the weekend. My drawing abilities, however, primarily consist of stickmen.

[thebigchin]

My drawing abilities, however, primarily consist of stickmen.

That's perfect! Most climbers at the Pet kind of look like stickmen.