Free gear to anyone re-equipping stripped routes.

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Aaron
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Free gear to anyone re-equipping stripped routes.

Post by Aaron » Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:50 pm

So based on the advice given to me from Kris and Staven I went on down to Fastenal in North Vancouver and picked up a sack of 100 stainless steal nylock nuts and washers. Thanks for the heads up on Fastenal BTW, I clearly have been paying WAY too much on hardware over the years.

So my thoughts are this. To anyone who wishes to re-equip one of the many routes recently stripped of its hangers and anchors in the Smoke Bluffs, please allow me to give you free use of these nuts and washers.

The bulk of the cost of re-equipping all these routes will of course be the hangers. In my experience though buying individual hangers is not a problem, buying individual stainless steel nylock nuts is. I figure it would be silly to have to buy a box full of nuts if all you wanted to do is add 4 or 5 hangers to re-equip one route.

So my only questions is this. What is the best way for me to get this gear to those who want it? Currently I live in West Vancouver and I'm building a house in Squamish 1km north of the Smoke Bluff parking lot at the corner of Loggers Lane and Finch. I could leave them in a coffee nailed to a wall with a "help your self" sign, Or perhaps I could leave them at one the local retailers who sell hangers. Thoughts?

Aaron Kristiansen
WTF?

scrubber
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Post by scrubber » Wed Feb 09, 2011 7:06 am

It seems like it would make the most sense to leave a bunch at Climb on, and a bunch at Valhalla. Leaving a bag by any trail head will only result in them going missing.

serac
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nuts and washers at climbon

Post by serac » Thu Feb 10, 2011 12:57 pm

Big thanks to Aaron. If you need nuts and washers come to Climb On and grab what you need.
Last one dead's a sissy

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Post by squamish climber » Sun Feb 13, 2011 2:25 pm

I received an email from the Smoke Bluff Park Advisory Committee to pass on:
Many thanks to all who have taken the initiative to restore decommissioned routes.Please advise Marke Bourdon at quickdrawpublications.com as he has kindly volunteered to maintain a special list of restored routes.

Brian Moorhead for SBPAC
And it would be helpful to post the climbs here as well.
Dave Jones - site admin
When you reach the top, keep climbing -- Zen proverb

staven
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Post by staven » Sun Feb 13, 2011 4:18 pm

All routes at Funarama now have hangers replaced. At Bughouse Heights, Unscrupulous and Nimble Caper (both look bleached and really fun) have their top two bolt studs not sticking out far enough to thread the nut onto the hanger. Also the third bolt on Nimble Caper could not be re-attached. Maybe my hangers are too fat, maybe they were hammered in, maybe they were always like that. Either way, no hangers were replaced on these routes. They'll still be fun top ropes (boo).

Thanks to Aaron and Climb On for the hardware.

J Mace
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Re: Free gear to anyone re-equipping stripped routes.

Post by J Mace » Mon Apr 18, 2011 7:39 am

Anyone know where this list of restored climbs is? I wandered by Wankulator and the routes there were removed, small cliff so maybe pointless.

Seems like the less travelled crags are still boltless?

Essentially is everything on quickdraw that was barleys stripped? The stuff thats been replaced is tunnel rock, funarama and a few select climbs at Ronins?

mcfly
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Re: Free gear to anyone re-equipping stripped routes.

Post by mcfly » Mon Apr 18, 2011 9:39 am

Climbing in the bluffs yesterday - noticed that bolts from new routes at Bughouse Heights "pussies galore", "blethersright?" and "unscrupulous" have all been stripped. At Ravens Dell hangers have been removed from the route "Tok Tok". Are the free nuts and hangers still available?

Also - anybody have info on the newer routes around the "sudden impact" area?

Thanks

J Mace
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Re: Free gear to anyone re-equipping stripped routes.

Post by J Mace » Tue Apr 19, 2011 7:00 am

Sunbeam wall, anyone know if thats been stripped?

I dont mind re-equipping that one if it hasnt, I quite enjoyed the route that tops out.

If no one knows guess I will stop by climb on and grab some gear.

Cheers

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