SAS Re-bolting Initiative

[The_SAS_David_Jones]

Hi Everyone,

This is (yet another) David Jones. I'm a co-director of SAS and we've recently completed an initial effort to re-bolt a selection of climbs around Squamish. A report on this work can be found on our website:

http://squamishaccess.ca/?p=687

The reaction from the community has been overwhelming positive and we are moving on to Phase 2 on the initiative. Phase 2 will continue by re-bolting climbs in Chek, Rouge Gallery, Murrin, Grand Wall, and the North Wall. In this follow up effort we will likely include replacement of nearly all suspect fixed draws at Chek.

If you have any positive or negative comments or if you have any questions/ concerns please contact me djones <at> squamishaccess.ca or make a comment on our website. Suggestions for other climbs to be considered for re-bolting can be made in a similar manner or here:

http://squamishaccess.ca/?page_id=13

If this sounds like a good idea, considering joining SAS to support these and other efforts we are working on for all climbers. And if you’d like to hear more about this and other SAS initiatives in more detail, come to our AGM in early October (date TBA).

Cheers,

David Jones
SAS co-director

[dakine]

Right on, I'm glad someone is looking at this. I was told yesterday that the draws and Mallions on Rug Munchers at the forgotten wall are showing signs of heavy wear and should be replaced.

[The_SAS_David_Jones]

Thanks for the heads up on Rug Munchers and for your efforts thus far. All of us are appreciative of you and many others putting in hours and your own $$ on bolt and draw replacements. Hopefully the SAS initiative can complement these efforts.

In phase 2 this fall, on Forgotten Wall we are planning on replacing the draws on Rug Munchers and From Beneath You it Devours and the lead bolts/anchors on MEC, Creepy Crawlers, Filth Infatuation, Low Impact

Let us know if you have other suggestions.

Cheers,

David Jones
Co-director of SAS.

[MGarcia]

A few comments:

1. As you replace the anchors at Forgotten Wall routes, please do not lower them. The character of the routes would change drastically if you soften the topouts.

2. If possible, the last biner on rugmunchers should be steel. No one that warms up on it goes to the anchors, most just topout and fall.

3. Need donations?

[harihari]

You could just chop most of the bolts at Forgotten Wall. Everything under 5.11 there goes safely on gear But serooulsy, great work SAS.

[crimptacular]

You could just chop most of the bolts at Forgotten Wall. Everything under 5.11 there goes safely on gear...

Seeing how the majority of routes on Forgotten Wall are graded 5.11 and higher, I find this statement ridiculous.

[harihari]

You could just chop most of the bolts at Forgotten Wall. Everything under 5.11 there goes safely on gear...

Seeing how the majority of routes on Forgotten Wall are graded 5.11 and higher, I find this statement ridiculous.

yeah, the mahority are 11s and up but there are if memory serves five or so routes below 11 that go fine on natural gear.

[dakine]

yes'm i hear tell that there split piller could use some bolts and fixed draws....

[bradley3297]

I sense a lynch mob coming on. Im going to grab my torch.

[dakine]

well fair is fair iffn the trad climbers are gonna chop bolts at chek us sporty types might as well put some new routes up on the Chief

[bradley3297]

ya but we have number 4 5 and 6 cams. far better to beat sportos with than quickdraws.

[jipstyle]

well fair is fair iffn the trad climbers are gonna chop bolts at chek us sporty types might as well put some new routes up on the Chief

Sporty types on the Chief? But .. it is more than 40m tall!