damaged fixed draws

[dakine]

Just a word of warning when climbing on fixed gear... just because it's fixed doesn't mean it's bomber. Check the fixed gear on the routes!!

This mallion was taken off the crux clip on Heifer Down at chek. Two weeks before I replaced the biner off the crux on the Fleeing Heifer (worn 1/2 through).

Climb hard but play safe.

[Peter]

There's an initiative under way to replace most of the old hardware at Chek and various other places.......

[5.4 Slayer]

Dakine replaced the ones on Mrs. Negative, plus the crux ones on Face the Music and I think maybe Cut to the Chase too.
One of the ones on Face, or maybe Cut, was too old and the mallion was to rusted/corroded to remove. We need a hack saw to remove it.

[dakine]

4-5 bolt on Cut has the seized mallion, I'll bring a hacksaw out next time. I also replaced the anchor biners on the shared anchors of Cut, Fleeing Heifer.

[bradley3297]

were the ones on mrs negative replaced since thursday. I was on it on thursday and it still had the old draws. and the second bolt was really loose.

[5.4 Slayer]

yeah, changed this afternoon.

[bradley3297]

thanks for the retro been working on this route but find i lack confidence in those old draws.

[Anders Ourom]

i lack confidence in those old draws

Nothing like a 'sporty' sport climb.

[dakine]

this is the crux draw near the top of Mrs. Negative it was the most worn off that route. The next worst was the crux draw on Face the Music...

[Brendan]

Why would Face the Music have fixed draws?

[5.4 Slayer]

Pretty much everything there has fixed draws Brendan. Lotsa people, faster turn around times. Easy to bail if you can't make it up.

[The_SAS_David_Jones]

Hi Everyone,

This fall, SAS will be replacing nearly all suspect fixed draws in Chek. See my post here for more info:

http://www.squamishclimbing.com/squamis ... php?t=3007


Cheers,

David Jones
co-director of SAS.

[blueshoes]

Thanks so much for the new draws on Mrs. Negative, Dakine! I knew the old ones were sketchy, but that photo you posted gives me chills...

[dakine]

My pleasure! We also replaced the last draw with grade 70 chain on Miss. Neg so the rubbing shouldn't affect the draw as much. Cut to the Chase now has grade 70 chain, mallions and newer biners. (Chain donated by 5.4 Slayer)

[Brendan]

Pretty much everything there has fixed draws Brendan. Lotsa people, faster turn around times. Easy to bail if you can't make it up.

Wow.
Every sport climb should have fixed draws.