White Taped Route

[Paul Greenwood]

Hey Everyone, I just found a recently developed crag in west vancouver and wanted to try out some of the routes. There is a bunch of fixed draws and 2 of the routes have red tape on them, however one has white tape. I know not to climb the red taped routes but what are the rules on white tape? Any suggestions would be great, thanks alot.

Paul

[Mik]

if its West Van its probably Rolf Rybak. get in contact with him if it is the area in question.

MIke

[Mike Teschke]

I believe you are refering to a new area called the Caulfield Cougar Crag. It was developed in the heat of the summer last year and is a beautiful place to go when it's hot out. Everything there is open except the red taped routes. Feel free to PM me if you'd like more route info.

[rolfr]

Please respect the tagged routes didn't have red tape. A couple of injuries has delayed sending the routes. I will post topo and info soon. Working on a couple more crags in the area. Rolf

[Paul Greenwood]

Sure thing rolf i will stay off all marked. Thanks for getting that crag going, if you need any help in that area I live up the street from the park.

paul

[dakine]

any more teaser info as for grades? and quality of climbs?

[harihari]

Please respect the tagged routes didn't have red tape. A couple of injuries has delayed sending the routes. I will post topo and info soon. Working on a couple more crags in the area. Rolf

Rolf--

good on you for keepign at it! Sure, 15 year olds climbing 14+ is cool; way cooler is much older guys doing 5.12 routes!


chris

[Mike Teschke]

As Rolf said, there is more work being done in the area. A topo will be done when everything is more complete.

Route ratings from left to right:
5.11d (stick clip the first bolt),
5.12a,
5.11b (5.12 shares the same start bolt I think then moves left.),
project,
project,
5.11-,
5.10d,
5.10c (this shares the start to the 5.10d then moves right out the overhang, there is a long fixed draw on this one, has a couple good moves but is hard to descend and not get your ropes and feet wet.)

[Paul Greenwood]

So awesome, i climbed the .11- and .10d. Really nice features!

[anthonie]

Left to Right:

S.O.S (Spicy Old Spinster) 5.11d
On the Prowl 24/7 5.12b
Flake Project 5.11b
Double Shot No Foam Soy Latte 5.11d (red tape)
Jealous Husband 5.12a/b sustained
Pool Boy 5.11a sustained sustained
Awkward Proposition 5.10c
Cougarlicious 5.10b roof
Another Project 5.11+

Some of the names and grades need confirmation. Thanks Rolf!

[anthonie]

Someone stole biners on the draws at this crag. That's totally lame!

[Mike Teschke]

Some douche just ruined it for the everyone... I guess we won't be putting any more fixed draws at these new crags.

[Paul Greenwood]

they just took all the biners off one route. The other routes still have draws. so uncalled for though.

[jstod]

WEAK...

[rolfr]

So here we go again,same old crap just a different thief.

“ Mister Thief you stole from one of my friends who put in an honest day's work to contribute to our community. Sadly the person you stole the most from was yourself.
Our dignity is worth more than a hand full of shiny biners, to bad you stooped so low and now have defined yourself by your actions.

You can use any rationalization to justify your actions but ultimately you are just a disrespected thief. Obviously you are a climber, otherwise you wouldn’t have picked the hardest climb to steal the newest biners. Do the right thing, leave the biners at the crag and
show some character and regain some dignity.”

The best way to discourage this is to have more people climbing here.

Directions to Caulfield Cougar Crag: Coming from Van, take Caulfield exit off Hwy, turn right at stop sign, Continue on Woodgreen Drive up hill, 3rd right into Woodgreen Place. Drive into gravel parking lot for Cypress Falls Park. Take trail east out of lot, trail turns left. Take first junction right after 50-100 meters, immediately drop down right onto trail heading downhill.
Continue on trail passing crag on left, to promontory lower down above creek. Hand-line 4th class down to river. total approach time less than 5 minutes.

The grades Mike posted are a bit of a sandbag. I suggest from left to right:

5.11d stick clip. Spicy old Spinster (SOS)
5.12b/c same first bolt as next climb right On the Prowl
5.11b (some old white tape on first bolt,short crux) Aaron's Folly
5.12 a project red tape Double Shot No Foam Soy Latte
5.12 b sustained Jealous Husband
5.11 a/b sustained, sustained Pool Boy
5.10 c awkward Awkward Proposition
5.10 d roof Cougarlicious
5.11+ Project

We are working on other crags in the area, 20 routes by next year. No fixed gear.

Rolf