La Gota Fria, 5.11b (A0), 18 pitches

[Dylan Connelly]

Blicker,

If your pissed off I would suggest that you call either me or stolz before blasting someone on a forum and attacking their character.

I happen to agree with Stolz that an FA on such a long route goes to the party that climbed the "First Ascent". Obviously you still get credit for the pitches that you climbed first. I'm not sure how it could be any other way.

If I'm offside here, I would appreciate some veteran advice.


Best regards,

[Brendan]

Either way any of you guys look at things, it's FFA which matters most

[harihari]

Either way any of you guys look at things, it's FFA which matters most

yeah...and that's gonna be Mike's, assuming he can do it before the rains come...

[Mik]

fca: chris stolz dylan connelloy
fa's:
pitch 1. myles holt.
pitch 2. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 3. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 4. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 5. dylan connelly, chris stolz
pitch 6. dylan, chris
pitch 7, dylan chris
pitch 8, dylan chris
pitch 9. chis, dylan
pitch 10, chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 11. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 12. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 13. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 14. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 15. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 16. fa mike blicker
pitch 17. fa unknown. none of us
pitch 18. fa unknown. none of us.

first free ascents of individual pitches
pitch 1. ian bennett
pitch 2. chris, mike
pitch 3. chris, mike
pitch 4. mike blicker
pitch 5. NO FFA. closed for FFA attempts for the moment
pitch 6. chris/dylan
pitch 7. NO FFA. closed for FFA attempts for the moment
pitch 8. dylan/chris
pitch 9. dylan /chris
pitch 10. mike blicker
pitch 11. all 3 of us i would assume.
pitch 12. chris/ dylan
pitch 13. chris/ dylan
pitch 14. mike blicker
pitch 15. ryan hasselly/mike blicker
pitch 16. mike blicker
pitch 17. dylan / chris
pitch 18. dylan /chris

and there you have it. no continuous free ascent yet. and its closed for a Continuous ascent for the moment except to people who have been contacted within the community (many of whom are amazing climbers and will be far better than I will ever be).

[Mik]

@ dylan. chris has been attacking my character on his blog the entire time so respectfully you can suck it.

[Fre]

Dear Mike,
they have indeed been ripping on you a bit, still it took me the longest time to figure out that you were Napoleon and that we actually climbed together a couple of times in the gym last spring or even earlier. Just like Bradley I'm a bit confused and can't figure out the what/who/when and with which weapon of this very juicy and nasty e-fight, but I'm lovin it. Way better than stalking you on facebook!

[Dylan Connelly]

@ dylan. chris has been attacking my character on his blog the entire time so respectfully you can suck it.

Still waiting for the phone call blicks.....

[pinner]

Not sure if I know personally any of the three of you, but does any of this really matter? I realize recognition for our efforts is part of why we do things, but surely the reward of seeing people enjoy something we created (or had a hand in creating) is better...(yeah, I know that's bullsh*t for the most part, too )

Besides, two guide book editions from now it'll just be a list of three names together, probably in the wrong order, anyway, or like in McLane's new Western Canada book, NO FA's listed at all...

Thanks to everyone who works on new routes, even if it's only dropping the cleaners off at the crag - every bit counts. Of course, more props to those who put more time in, but c'mon guys... the route's cleaned and a wonderful new climbing objective has been given to our community, that's what counts. Noone gives a sh*t if Climber A managed to free 2 pitches after the rest had gone free, but Climber B climbed it all continuous but not free...
I hate seeing bullsh*t like that printed in guides: 4 lines of FA, FFA, FCA, FCFA, FCFACFSCFA.... f**k off with the ego stroking

maybe it's important when the route opened a new area altogether, or marked a new standard of climbing in a center, but even then I doubt it...

Just patch this sh*t up so it doesn't stop you guys from collaborating on more projects, as it's obvious you guys all have big vision and strong abilities.

Thanks for the route (although it is well above my current abilities - maybe I'll get on it in a few years)

[harihari]

fca [5.11b A0 version]: chris stolz dylan connelly
fa's:
pitch 1. myles holt.
pitch 2. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 3. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 4. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 5. dylan connelly, chris stolz
pitch 6. dylan, chris
pitch 7, dylan chris
pitch 8, dylan chris
pitch 9. chis, dylan
pitch 10, chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 11. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 12. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 13. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 14. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 15. chris stolz, mike blicker
pitch 16. fa mike blicker
pitch 17. fa unknown. none of us
pitch 18. fa unknown. none of us.

first free ascents of individual pitches
pitch 1. ian bennett
pitch 2. chris, mike
pitch 3. chris, mike
pitch 4. mike blicker
pitch 5. NO FFA. closed for FFA attempts for the moment
pitch 6. chris/dylan
pitch 7. NO FFA. closed for FFA attempts for the moment
pitch 8. dylan/chris
pitch 9. dylan /chris
pitch 10. mike blicker
pitch 11. all 3 of us i would assume.
pitch 12. chris/ dylan
pitch 13. chris/ dylan
pitch 14. mike blicker
pitch 15. ryan hasselly/mike blicker
pitch 16. mike blicker
pitch 17. dylan / chris
pitch 18. dylan /chris

and there you have it. no continuous free ascent yet. and its closed for a Continuous ascent for the moment except to people who have been contacted within the community (many of whom are amazing climbers and will be far better than I will ever be).

Almost but not quite. There were no FAs of P11-18, since those were done by rap-in. P1: 5.11b version Ian Bennett, 5.10d version Chris Stolz. The rest is correct. So what was the issue again, Mike?

[harihari]

Dear Mike,
they have indeed been ripping on you a bit, still it took me the longest time to figure out that you were Napoleon and that we actually climbed together a couple of times in the gym last spring or even earlier. Just like Bradley I'm a bit confused and can't figure out the what/who/when and with which weapon of this very juicy and nasty e-fight, but I'm lovin it. Way better than stalking you on facebook!

It IS fun, isn't it? Good thing we didn't climb an Himalayan peak or something liek that...we'd be having armed warfare instead of mere forum squabbling

[Mik]

@ pinner yeah i agree. its kind of a stupid thing to be arguing about but there are other factors at work. its more about not letting someone take what's yours, he wanted debate and now he's got one. maybe it'll give him something to do other than add to his book / stamp collection.

what chris has failed to mention is that we have split the route financially down the middle, 1/3 , 1/3, 1/3. my metrics earlier are correct if we are talking about the same pitches. 7 being WLYW, 8 the pitch above that and 9, the 5.9 corner.

dylan send me your number, i'll give you a call anytime you want, muffin. send me your work number and we'll discuss my tax return.

[Mik]

pitch 1. fa myles holt. his static line has been there for ages.

the left variation, i drilled some bolts on it, the right variation, probably ian i don't know iwasn't there for that day.

you were there with me the day i drilled p1.

again. FA myles holt. get your facts together, yet again you are lying to suit your own needs. we know it was Myles, as we used his rope to get up the thing.

[Mik]

rap bolting is the norm in squamish chris. only a retard would do ground up and risk the lives of people underneath them, both on the climb and walking underneath the climb (without forewarning).

MIke

[harihari]

pitch 1. fa myles holt. his static line has been there for ages.

the left variation, i drilled some bolts on it, the right variation, probably ian i don't know iwasn't there for that day.

you were there with me the day i drilled p1.

again. FA myles holt. get your facts together, yet again you are lying to suit your own needs. we know it was Myles, as we used his rope to get up the thing.

Mike-- yes, the blog notes Myles as FA P1; Ian and I did FREE ascents of the thing (Ian 11b me 10d). I never claimed FA on P1.

[harihari]

rap bolting is the norm in squamish chris. only a retard would do ground up and risk the lives of people underneath them, both on the climb and walking underneath the climb (without forewarning).

MIke

Mike-- "norm" is not a meaningful word. There's as many styles of climbing new routes as there are climbers. I'll bet you $$ that the Grand Wall wasn't rap bolted. Perhaps you are suggesting that Mr Croft, Beckham, inter alia are retards? Climbing is risky. A leader or second can die doing it. Those who can't stand the heat should stay out of the kitchen, or rap-bolt.

And we should remember that the really dangerous bombing of the ground occurred not from P4, but from the top-down static line hung into the v-slot, and that all members of the cleaning team trundled in a dangerous way before we got our act together.